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Student Paper The Flapper in the Art of John Held, Jr.: Modernity, Post-Feminism, and the Meaning of Women's Bodies in 1920s Magazine Cover Illustration Carolyn L. Kitch Doctoral Student Temple University 4001 Schoolhouse Lane Harrisburg, Pennsylvania 17109 717-545-8576 [log in to unmask] A paper submitted to the Visual Communication Division of the Association for Education in Journalism and Mass Communication for the 1997 Annual Conference in Chicago, Ill. The Flapper in the Art of John Held, Jr.: Modernity, Post-Feminism, and the Meaning of Women's Bodies in 1920s Magazine Cover Illustration Abstract In the 1920s, the "flapper"--a symbol, then and now, of the "Jazz Age"--was closely associated with the magazine illustration of John Held, Jr. An examination of this imagery considers women's representation as a primary site for the intersection of early-twentieth-century feminism, modernism, and consumerism. It suggests that--during a pivotal decade in both women's history and mass-media history--the progressive cultural construct of the "New Woman" became commodified and contained in the flapper. The Flapper in the Art of John Held, Jr.: Modernity, Post-Feminism, and the Meaning of Women's Bodies in 1920s Magazine Cover Illustration In his memoirs, magazine humorist Corey Ford remembered the 1920s in terms of its popular culture: "Fitzgerald christened it the Jazz Age, but John Held, Jr. set its styles and manners. His angular and scantily clad flapper was . . . the symbol of our moral revolution . . . . So sedulously did we ape his caricatures that they lost their satiric point and came to be a documentary record of our times." In his time and in later decades, illustrator John Held, Jr. was credited with creating the definitive image of the "flapper," a tall, thin, cartoonish young woman preoccupied with dancing, drinking, and necking. Throughout the 1920s, Held's flapper--usually accompanied by a gawky boy or a squat older man--appeared on the covers of (and inside) national magazines, especially the humor publication Life. In actuality, this visual symbol represented the looks and lifestyle of only some middle-class youth, yet she quickly came to stand for larger ideas. "By the early 1920s," writes Held biographer Shelley Armitage, "his flapper was an aesthetic ideal as a symbol of cultural change"; she stood for "what was free, spontaneous, and bold about a culture in flux." The fact that ideas about cultural change were encoded in the body of a woman is significant, offering insights into American notions during this era about womanhood, about modernity, and about mass media. By the 1920s, the "New Woman," initially a political construct that signified real advances for women, had become largely trivialized in the flapper. This symbol appeared widely throughout popular culture of the decade, not only in Held's drawings, but also in the movies and in novels. Moreover, she was more than a symbol: young women dressed and acted in imitation of this new ideal, and the flapper became a subject of debate in journalistic media. This paper examines John Held's illustrations as, to borrow John Fiske's term, a "cultural resource" from a complex era that saw both a backlash against feminism and the maturing of mass culture. It reads these images as texts within a public discourse about progress and as sites at which consumerist and patriarchal ideologies intersected. The analysis begins with a description of the Held flapper, offering specific examples, and then considers two cultural uses of this image during the 1920s: its function as a symbol of modernism; and its deployment in order to commodify American women's new "freedom." The Image The ideal of a tall, svelte, ornamental woman had appeared in American popular culture as early as 1907, when Florenz Ziegfeld's towering "Ziegfeld Girls" first paraded down staircases on the Broadway stage. By the 1920s, this elongated body image, which connoted sophistication and smartness, was evident as well in fashion illustrations, advertisements, and even depictions of actual women, such as the actress Gertrude Lawrence and the aviatrix Amelia Earhart (see Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4). Fast-living, smart-talking, worldly, sleekly-thin young girls appeared in film (actress Clara Bow, nicknamed "the It girl," became famous for playing such characters); on the covers of sheet music for songs featuring "gals" and "hot mammas" (Figure 5); and in the fiction of F. Scott Fitzgerald. The flapper lived for leisure and never seemed to lack for money. Writing about a hypothetical flapper in a 1925 issue of The New Republic, Bruce Bliven described his subject as a 19-year-old girl with short hair, wearing a "brief" dress and a great deal of makeup. Imagining her setting, he saw her "as she strolls across the lawn of her parents' suburban home, having just put the car away after driving sixty miles in two hours." This girl was triumphantly "free," making her own daring choices about appearance, attitude, and behavior "while from the sidelines to which he has been relegated mere man is vouchsafed permission only to pipe a feeble Hurrah!" The flappers John Held, Jr. drew for American magazine covers were a part of this larger representational phenomenon, yet their style and tone were distinctive. Held used the tall, thin body type--but transformed it from chic to ridiculous. Held's flapper was a cartoon, a caricature of the New Woman who was neither sophisticated nor smart; instead, she was self-absorbed and silly. She was flat-chested and skinny, made up mainly of arms and legs, and she often had an equally ridiculous-looking male in tow. She wore a sleeveless dress with a short skirt and roll-top stockings that were usually falling down. On most of the covers, the flapper's setting and behavior were explained by a title, a clever phrase Held drew into each illustration. These words were a form of (to use Roland Barthes' term) anchorage that limited the possible meanings of the visual message, that helped viewers "to choose the correct level of perception . . . to focus not simply [their] gaze but also [their] understanding" of magazine illustration. Some of Held's flappers were college students who cheered at football games and whose boyfriends wore coonskin coats and carried hip flasks. Though his depiction of girls in college reflected an actual upward trend in women's enrollment, Held's campus flapper, whom he sometimes called "Betty Co-Ed," was not the studious type. Jack Shuttlesworth, a contemporary of Held, described her as a girl with "fingers snapping, feet jumping, troubled by nothing very much except yesterday's hangover and tomorrow's heavy date." Nor was she shy. She was loud, as suggested by the cheering flapper on the November 19, 1925 Life cover titled "Hold 'Em," a phrase that no doubt referred to both the football bame in progress and the girl's sagging stockings (Figure 6). She was immodest, like the girl shown lowering her bathing strap to check for sunburn in front of her snickering male companion on another Life cover titled "The Girl Who Gave Him the Cold Shoulder" (Figure 7). She was at loose ends without a boyfriend, like "The Thinker," on Life's March 18, 1926 cover, all dressed up with no place to go--and nothing better to think about than "Love Confessions" (Figure 8). Yet when she had a beau, she was usually in charge of the relationship. It was the flapper who seemed to be doing the proposing in the July 29, 1926 Life barnyard love scene, with its title, "The Laughing Stock," presumably labeling the young man in the picture (Figure 9). She was certainly the one winning the lover's quarrel, titled "Where the Blue Begins" (under the man's eye!), on the April 7, 1923 cover of Judge (Figure 10). Though positioned below her boyfriend on the golf course, the flapper in "One Up, Two to Play" on Judge's June 30, 1923 cover also seemed to be directing the action, considering the expression on the young man's face (Figure 11, top left). Other Held flappers were young society women. Some exhibited crude taste, such as the girl about to swig whiskey from a bottle in "The Lass Who Loved a Sailor" on Life's June 24, 1926 cover (Figure 11, bottom right). Most of the society flappers, however, preferred champagne to gin and fit F. Scott's Fitzgerald's description of his own female characters: "lovely and expensive and about nineteen." Despite the elite lifestyles suggested by their clothing and settings, these women were socially daring, smoking ("She Left Home Under a Cloud," Figure 11, top right), bobbing their hair ("The Long and the Short of It," Figure 12), and dancing to jazz (no title, August 1927; Figure 13). Some society flappers, like those in "Sitting Pretty" (Figure 14) and "The Girl Who Went for a Ride in a Balloon" (Figure 15), were posed in sexually suggestive though awkward ways. Like their teenage counterparts, these women could be physically abusive to men ("She Missed the Boat," Figure 16). And they could be golddiggers, the clear implication of the titles and scenes of two Life covers showing flappers with older, shorter, bald men: "She Missed the Boat" and "Teaching Old Dogs New Tricks" (Figure 17). On a surface (but not insignificant) level, the latter two illustrations made an unflattering suggestion about young society women's motives in the 1920s. On another level, they offer examples of the symbolic use of a woman's image to represent modernity itself: these illustrations show us the twentieth century (a tall, attractive woman in a revealing, modern frock) overpowering the nineteenth century (a short, bald, overweight, aging man in a tuxedo). This interpretation is one of several ways Held's flapper--in her body image and in her activities--can be seen as a symbol of change in the larger American culture. The Flapper as a Symbol of Modernity Film historian Sumiko Higashi, writing about the 1920s, argues that "the image of womanhood upheld by society is a cultural byproduct of its mores and profoundly resistant to change"; therefore, "whenever change occurs, society is experiencing certain transformations, as it was during World War I and its aftermath." The body of Held's flapper was a far cry from that of the Victorian matron (or her more attractive daughter, the Victorian girl) depicted in late-nineteenth-century popular culture. The latter ideal had been represented by the female images drawn by Charles Dana Gibson for Collier's and Life magazines during the 1890s and early 1900s. The "Gibson Girl" embodied the Victorian-American values of sobriety and propriety, as well as specific moral prescriptions for middle-class women: purity, piety, domesticity, and submissiveness, the qualities historian Barbara Welter defined as comprising the nineteenth-century "cult of true womanhood." Held's flapper's appearance suggested just the opposite inclinations. The illustrator himself contrasted these two generations in an illustration that appeared inside a 1926 issue of Life, with the title "Thirty Years of Progress, 1896-1926" (Figure 18). Kenneth Yellis considered this set of images as symbolic of the new century in America: "The Gibson girl was the embodiment of stability. The flapper's aesthetic ideal was motion, [and] her characteristics were intensity, energy, volatility. . . . She refused to recognize the traditional moral code of American civilization, while the Gibson girl had been its guardian." The flapper further suggested a rejection of more recent events, a change in national mood after World War I--what one historian later characterized as "an immense, all-pervading disillusionment." Describing American men's reaction to the war's end, Malcolm Cowley wrote, "we all got drunk. We had come through, we were still alive . . . . We danced in the streets . . . with bottles of champagne, fell asleep somewhere. On the next day, after we got over our hangovers, we didn't know what to do, so we got drunk." As they danced, necked, and drank bootleg gin, Held's flappers offered comic versions of the dissipation that characterized Cowley's memoirs and much American literature of the period. Held's flapper also was stylistically linked to trends in modern art. The fact that she was a cartoon rather than a faithful rendition of a real woman separated Held's art from both the idealized images of upper-class women in nineteenth- century painting and the realistic depictions of working-class women in the work of the "Ashcan realists" of the Progressive era . Held's girls seemed to float in space, fitting cultural studies scholar Martin Pumphrey's description of the flapper: "Young, with no future or past . . . angular and poised yet always in motion, she [was] an ironic realization of modernist principles." Three characteristics of modern art, as discussed by Roland Marchand, could be seen in Held's flapper. One was "the license [modern art] gave to 'expressive distortion,' to exaggeration even to the point of caricature." Unrealistic tallness was one aspect of this characteristic. In 1920s advertising, the modern woman "was immediately recognizable in her elongated neck, stiletto fingers, and towering height . . . . The proportions of some women in the tableaus suggested a height of over nine feet . . . . Their pointed feet and toes appeared to have emerged fresh from a pencil sharpener." This description fit many of Held's flappers (see, especially, Figures 14 and 16). The tall twentieth-century woman was as much as symbol of modernity as the skyscraper. The flapper's remarkable thinness further contributed to her unreal look. Stuart Ewen includes this female body ideal among various types of evidence supporting his argument that modernism was based on immateriality and was signified by imagery "freed from the liabilities of substance." The "streamlined" flapper, he writes, looked as if "she might transcend the force of gravity, dissolving into the weightless ecstasy of some modernistic frenzy." The second characteristic of modern art evident in Held's flapper was the stylistic elimination of details, a technique that became a way of "respond[ing] to the demands of the age for a fast tempo of reading based on 'effortless simplicity' in the type." This simplified image--what Jane Feuer would call a "flat character," in which larger messages could be inscribed and read--enabled viewers to recognize a familiar symbol and to quickly decode the ideas that symbol represented. Finally, Held conveyed motion through the use of diagonal lines in his flapper illustrations, a third quality of modern art. Movement was suggested by the flapper's frequently-leaning body, by her bent legs and arms ("flapping" out), by her slimness, and by the jagged hem or swaying skirt of her outfit. All of these visual cues "fostered the image of the woman in actual or impending motion--the woman on the move." So did her activities: cheering (Figure 7), fighting (Figures 10 and 16), falling through the air (Figure 16), and dancing (Figures 13 and 17). The angularity of the flapper in Figure 18, contrasted with the prim posture of the Gibson Girl, offers a particularly clear example of this phenomenon. Part of the kinetic nature of modern images was an illusion of newness and novelty, a feeling of constant change, an offering of "the latest mode"--a technique in verbal and visual popular culture of the 1920s that was used not only to connote the new century, but also to sell products in a new mass-market culture. It was particularly in this sense that the idea of a New Woman, and images representing that idea, became yet another aspect of modernism, called into service as "triggers for consumer behavior." The Flapper as Commodification of the New Woman The transformation of women's representation during the 1920s was not merely the result of commercial imperatives. It was also a form of cultural backlash against the (real) political gains made and the (generally illusory) threat to the social order posed by American women as the Victorian era gave way to modernity. During the first two decades of the twentieth century, the role and status of women in the United States had undergone widespread discussion and some profound transformations. It was during these years that Progressive-era reform offered a chance for middle-class women to become involved in the public sphere in large numbers; that women made the final push for, and achieved, suffrage; that the term "feminist" first came into use, by women and by the press; that women entered the workforce, including new professions, in significant numbers; that the American popularity of the works of Freud prompted a public acknowledgement of women's sexuality; and that a new birth-control movement enabled women to express that sexuality more freely and safely. To some extent, the flapper ideal confirmed these changes. In her history of women's cultural representation, Lois Banner notes that this image conveyed multiple and conflicting "behavior messages" for women. Indeed, the flapper has been a contested image among historians who have studied both image and reality in the women's lives. Some scholars have admired the flapper's outrageousness and irreverence and called her a revolutionary figure, the first mass-media depiction of a woman openly expressing her sexuality in an even power relationship with men. Furthermore, many young women living in the 1920s chose the flapper label as a way of declaring their rejection of social conventions. One, Ruth Hooper, defended the term in a 1922 New York Times article titled "Flapping Not Repented Of." She explained that "a flapper is proud of her nerve . . . . She is shameless, selfish and honest." Such a girl, Hooper warned young men, "will never make you a hatband or knit a necktie, but she'll drive you from the station hot summer nights in her own little sport car. She'll don knickers and go skiing with you; or if it happens to be summer time, swimming; she'll dive as well as you, perhaps better; she'll dance as long as you care to . . . ." This was certainly a description of an independent, confident young woman. Yet the New Woman who became a flapper was depicted--by Hooper as well as by Held--as an equal with men only in the world of leisure. Another New York Times piece, a tongue-in-cheek essay published in 1929, claimed that the flapper had earned "the feminine right to equal representation in such hitherto masculine fields of endeavor as smoking and drinking, swearing, petting and disturbing the community peace." Sumiko Higashi argues that, in film as well as magazine illustration, "[t]he flapper's youthful, spirited and impulsive manner suggested a party without end." Contrasting the flapper with the image of female Progressive reformers of the previous generation, Mary P. Ryan has noted that The slim figure of the new woman seemed designed for play and pleasure, energetic self-expression rather than altruistic service to mankind. . . . It was old- fashioned to gather with one's own sex and pledge mutual dedication to solace the poor children of slums and factories. The flapper symbolized a solipsistic, hedonistic, and privated femininity, a gay abandonment of social housekeeping, women's organizations, and dogged professionalism. Through the flapper image, the "new" freedom of American women was thus symbolically reduced to showing a lot of leg and public necking--essentially, exhibitionistic fun. In her history of courtship in America, Beth Bailey has noted that by the 1920s, such public displays of sexuality were far from shocking; they were, in fact, expected behavior among middle-class youth. Furthermore, as Lois Banner has observed, Held's illustrations portrayed women's sexuality as comical, as a prank they played on unsuspecting men. At the same time, the flapper's body itself--flat-chested, hipless, skinny--posed little real sexual threat. Surveying American "trends in feminine beauty," sociologist Allan Mazur notes that "[f]lapper beauty was remarkable for the near absence of female sexual characteristics." As a cultural ideal, Held's flapper was, in fact, not a woman at all, but an adolescent. She had none of the responsibilities of adulthood--she was never shown caring for children or working at a job. Her name itself suggested a teenager: "The term 'flapper,'" explains Kenneth Yellis, "originated in England as a description of girls of the awkward age . . . . meant literally . . . a girl who flapped had not yet reached mature, dignified womanhood." It is significant that this particular shift in women's body-image ideals occurred during the decade that began with the passage of the Nineteenth Amendment granting women's suffrage and that saw the introduction (by self- identified "feminists") of the Equal Rights Amendment. Communication scholars Margaret Hawkins and Thomas Nakayama analyzed the flapper image against this political backdrop and saw it as a form of backlash against feminist gains. "Understood as a cultural struggle within patriarchy at the time," they wrote, "this idealized female body [was] . . . a crucial weapon in disempowering women by idealizing the body of a girl." Historian Elaine Tyler May agrees. The flapper's "childish aura," she writes, suggested that even in the 1920s, "women remained in a state of dependency on men, consistent with their traditional positions in both the economy and the home. They could gain the attention of men, but not from a stance of autonomy. The apparent freedom of the flapper, then, led directly to the protective support of a man." In this light, Held's illustration titled "Thirty Years of Progress, 1896-1926" (Figure 18) can be seen as supremely ironic. His flapper poked fun at women's actual advances while offering a "surface impresssion of the liberated woman"--an image which, Hawkins and Nakayama argue, was crucial to the formation "of advertising as an industry and ideological force, with women centered as the focal point of consumerism." Historians Rayna Rapp and Ellen Ross make a similar case, maintaining that, during the 1920s, "themes of female independence" disappeared from the political sphere but "resurfac[ed] in advertising" and media that contained advertising. To be useful as selling tools, women's body images and lifestyles had to seem new, yet any revolutionary tendencies of American women themselves--who, according to advertising industry research, made 85 percent of product-purchase decisions-- needed to be channeled into spending (not sexual, professional, or political) impulses. The flapper image played an important role in communicating to American women such prescriptions for consumption. Martin Pumphrey argues that the flapper's preoccupation with appearance and entertainment made her the perfect pitchperson for new industries that revolved around leisure and personal pleasure: [she] required clothes for innumerable occasions: travelling, shopping, lunching, weddings, outdoor amusements, tea, dining, theatre, dancing . . . . Constantly in movement, the Flapper required cars, trains and planes at her disposal. Enjoying sport and the healthy life, she needed outfits for driving, golf and tennis. Looking for a suntan in summer and skiing in winter, she took advantage of the summer cruises and winter holidays beng offered by the new tour companies. Seeking nightlife, she frequented places of luxury and expense. The flapper promoted a range of consumer products and services, but her main work was selling fashion. Held's illustrations did a large part of this work; indeed, so closely were flapper fashions associated with him that F. Scott Fitzgerald called them "John Held Clothes." The flapper uniform--which itself "came to symbolize the 'new woman's' independence," Higashi notes--included not only the short, narrow, sleeveless dress, but also a combination girdle and bra that bound the breasts and minimized the hips; roll-top, silk stockings; a handbag (the streamlined shift could not accommodate functional pockets); and cosmetics. The sales of hose and cosmetics alone betweeen 1923 and 1925 prompted the advertising firm N. W. Ayer to take flappers seriously. In an industry ad, Ayer executives noted that "tomorrow these young women will be home executives . . . . They will buy enormous quantities of every conceivable kind of staple merchandise." Sociologists Robert and Helen Lynd, in Middletown, their 1929 study of a representative American town, found evidence that flapper imagery had indeed spurred national consumption. Since the turn of the century, they reported, women's "skirts have shortened from the ground to the knee and the lower limbs have been emphasized by sheer silk stockings; more of the arms and neck are habitually exposed." Thanks to the new ready-to-wear clothing industry and the wide availability of consumer credit in the 1920s, this outfit, which began as a costume for urban elites, became affordable to middle-class women across the country. Flapper dresses were available for mail-order through the Sears-Roebuck catalog beginning in 1923, and retail stores sold them in the fashion industry's first standardized sizes. The vertical dress style and the new sizing system bolstered two other growing national industries, the weight-loss business and the tobacco industry. Then as now, smoking was portrayed in advertising as a gesture of independence: "In the 1920s," writes Michael Schudson, "cigarettes came to be a personal and social marker for 'the new woman,' a sign of divorce from the past and inclusion in the group of the new, young, and liberated." But tobacco companies also created a new female market by promoting their product as a diet aid, as a (to quote a Lucky Strike ad of the day) "new-day and common-sense way to keep a slender, fashionable figure." Ultimately, the flapper was a saleswoman. And in this sense, she became a prime example of how feminist notions about freedom and choice were co-opted by commercial culture--of how the New Woman in American culture became more profitable than political--during the 1920s. Conclusion In the flapper, epitomized by the cartoonish girls drawn by John Held, Jr., issues of feminism, modernism, and commerce intersected in complex ways. So too did image and reality intersect: women's body images in popular art carried prescriptions for the behavior of actual American women, and that behavior further defined the image. An examination of Held's flapper supports Raymond Williams' argument that art is a part, not merely a "reflection," of any particular era, that it is inside rather than outside history, and that until we know a society's imagery, "we cannot really claim to know the society." Though initially associated with the upper-class, urban phenomenon of the "Jazz Age," Held's flapper quickly became a national icon, distributed via mass- market magazines to middle-class Americans across the United States. On one level, this symbol incorporated larger messages: a modernist rejection of Victorian social, moral, and aesthetic values; a dismissal of women's sexual and political power; and an affirmation of pleasure-seeking through consumption. On another level, she quite literally showed millions of Americans, many of them women, what to buy in order to have a modern look and lifestyle. The flapper was a product of her time and society, and she existed in popular culture beyond the magazine world. John Held, Jr. did not invent the flapper. Yet he gave her a unique visual form that was widely recognized in his time and that remains a powerful figure in American memory and cultural history. The emergence and deployment of this image during the 1920s offer cultural historians valuable perspectives on American values and identity, on the loss of women's newfound political and social agency in this era, and on the role of mass-media representations of women's bodies in twentieth-century commercial culture. Credits and sources for illustrations Figure 1. (Clockwise from upper left:) Fashion illustration in Harper's Bazaar, 1925, reprinted in Jane Trahey, Harper's Bazaar: 100 Years of the American Female, 120; two advertisements (for advertising design itself) that appeared in Advertising and Selling, April 18, 1929 and March 24, 1926, reprinted in Marchand, Advertising the American Dream, 147, 143; silverware advertisement from the Saturday Evening Post, May 9, 1931, reprinted in Marchand, 182. Figure 2. Advertisement, Saturday Evening Post, April 9, 1927, reprinted in Marchand, 201. Figure 3. Advertisement, Saturday Evening Post, April 22, 1930, reprinted in Marchand, 183. Figure 4. Photo, Amelia Earhart (late 1920s), reprinted in Trahey, 40. Figure 5. Sheet music: "Danger! (Look Out for that Gal!)" and "Red Hot Mamma" (full citations in text). Figure 6. John Held, Jr., "Hold 'Em," Life, November 19, 1925, reprinted in Armitage, John Held, Jr.: Illustrator of the Jazz Age, 42. Figure 7. Held, "The Girl Who Gave Him the Cold Shoulder," Life, August 26, 1926, reprinted in John Held, Jr., The Most of John Held, Jr. (Brattleboro, VT: The Stephen Greene Press, 1972), 74. Figure 8. Held, "The Thinker," Life, March 18, 1926, reprinted in Armitage, 106-107. Figure 9. Held, "The Laughing Stock," Life, July 29, 1926, reprinted in Armitage, 106-107. Figure 10. Held, "Where the Blue Begins," Judge, April 7, 1923, reprinted in Armitage, 106-107. Figure 11. Held, (clockwise from upper left:) "One Up, Two to Play," Judge, June 30, 1923; "She Left Home Under a Cloud," Life, n. d.; "The Lass Who Loved a Sailor," Life, June 24, 1926; "The Girl Who Gave Him the Cold Shoulder," Life, August 26, 1926; all reprinted in Shuttlesworth, "John Held, Jr. and his World," 32. Figure 12. Held, "The Long and the Short of It," Life, December 18, 1924, reprinted in Held, 46. Figure 13. Held, [no title] McClure's, August 1927, reprinted in Walt Reed, The Illustrator in America, 1900-1960s (New York: Reinhold, 1966), 93. Figure 14. Held, "Sitting Pretty," Life, March 31, 1927, reprinted in Meyer, America's Great Illustrators, 297. Figure 15. Held, "The Girl Who Went for a Ride in a Balloon," Life, January 14, 1926, reprinted in Armitage, 86. Figure 16. Held, "She Missed the Boat," Life, April 28, 1927, reprinted in Held, 63. Figure 17. Held, "Teaching Old Dogs New Tricks," Life, February 18, 1926, reprinted in Armitage, cover. Figure 18. Held, "Thirty Years of Progress 1896-1926," Life (n. d.), reprinted in Meyer, 296. Notes
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