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Maternal Images in the Age of the Girl/ Maternal Images in the Age of the Girl: The Work of Jessie Willcox Smith and Other Women Artists in Early-Twentieth-Century Magazine Illustration Carolyn L. Kitch Temple University 4001 Schoolhouse Lane Harrisburg, Pennsylvania 17109 717-545-8576 [log in to unmask] A paper presented to the History Division of the Association for Education in Journalism and Mass Communication, for the 79th Annual Conference in Anaheim, Calif., August 1996 Maternal Images in the Age of the Girl: The Work of Jessie Willcox Smith and Other Women Artists in Early-Twentieth-Century Magazine Illustration The use of visual images as historical documents offers media historians two ways of thinking about the past. We may study images for clues to values held by media practioners and their audiences in various eras. We may also ask why certain images have been preserved over time and now serve as frames for our modern-day versions of these periods. This paper examines two very different visual depictions of American womanhood in magazines during "the golden age of illustration," roughly the first third of the twentieth century. One of those visions dominates our popular memory of the period. Most Americans "remember" the early twentieth century in terms of the Gibson Girl and the flapper, illustrators' creations that we have come to use as symbols of an era of dramatic change for women. Yet women's status in American society--their social roles and their political status, despite the achievement of suffrage in 1920--did not undergo major and lasting change during this period. Moreover, millions of American women continued to shape their self-images and live their lives in terms of ideals rooted in domesticity and motherhood--the other vision of womanhood in magazine illustrations. The creators of these contrasting images were divided not only by viewpoint, but also by gender. The male illustrators of the day (names we still remember, such as Charles Dana Gibson, Howard Chandler Christy, and John Held, Jr.) drew "girls"; the female illustrators of the day (names we rarely remember) drew mothers--women. This paper argues that women illustrators' representations of domesticity, of women as mature and responsible rather than young and carefree, was an assertion of female dignity and agency in an era of popular culture that often trivialized female identities and concerns. The following discussion surveys the work of both men and women illustrators of the day, with particular attention to the most successful and prolific of the women, Jessie Willcox Smith. Smith's work is representative of that of her female peers and of the domestic ideal in magazine illustration; it also echoes the maternal rhetoric of the women social reformers of the Progressive era. Her own life resembled the circumstances of other successful women of her day, as well, in that she had a network of women companions who did similar work and who gave her the personal and professional support she needed to have a major career. Smith is best known for her drawings of mothers and children, especially children. She herself never had children, she lived her entire adult life with other unmarried women, and her artistic identity was formed within a group of women illustrators who competed aggressively for work and achieved success comparable with men. Her work brought her national fame and wealth (her friends jokingly called her "The Mint"[1]). Yet her surroundings were conservative--she lived among Philadelphia's social elite, whose children she painted and whose patronage she courted--and she professed domestic ideology. She called marriage and motherhood "the ideal life for a woman"[2] and described her career as "one long joyous road along which troop delightful children."[3] This paper employs two methodological tools, textual analysis and biography, to rethink modern assumptions about media culture and women's status in the early twentieth century. In its emphasis on women's history, the paper considers women not only as objects and consumers of media culture, but also as some of its producers. It echoes the assertion of feminist art critic Janet Wolff that art is a social product and that historical conditions affect "who becomes an artist [and] how they become an artist," as well as what they produce.[4] Women in the Golden Age of Illustration During the late nineteenth century in America, art historian Catherine Stryker explains, "women were accepted in illustration because drawing and painting were supposedly a natural part of their refined and sympathetic personalities."[5] Between 1870 and 1890, the number of professional women artists in America rose from about 400 to nearly 11,000, roughly half the total number of artists in the country.[6] In fact, by the turn of the century, some critics felt that women's presence in the profession of illustration, combined with the predominantly female readership of magazines, was "feminizing" the field.[7] Wrote one newspaper art reviewer in 1906, "It is quite impossible to take up any of the leading magazines or periodicals without finding illustrations done by one or more women artists . . . [with] names familiar to many homes."[8] Those women illustrators, along with their male peers, had increasing opportunities for periodical work. In the late 1890s, advances in printing technology made it possible for magazines to reproduce color illustrations clearly and relatively inexpensively. At the same time, the subsidy of national advertising reduced the cost of producing magazines, making them widely affordable (during the early 1900s, most general-interest magazines sold for about 10 cents). Audiences were growing rapidly, and some magazines had readerships exceeding one million[9]; between 1905 and 1928, total U. S. magazine circulation doubled, from 17 million to 34 million.[10] The twin forces of immigration and urbanization, both of which peaked during the first two decades of the new century, helped to create these huge audiences, who looked to the popular monthlies as guides to manners, lifestyle, and upward mobility. Because the literacy rate varied within the new mass audiences, illustrations were a key selling point for magazines.[11] By the teens and twenties, notes art historian Rowland Elzea, illustrators "shared with matinee idols and sports figures the role of folk heroes--discussed, compared, revered and collected"; they played a "dual role of entertainer and enlightener."[12] Like other celebrities, they were not just well known but well paid. Charles Dana Gibson received $1,000 for each of the 100 "Gibson Girl" covers he drew for Collier's during the first decade of the century; the magazine paid the same rate to Frederic Remington.[13] The annual incomes of Gibson, Harrison Fisher, and Howard Chandler Christy were estimated at more than $50,000.[14] Jessie Willcox Smith led women earners in the field, with an estimated annual income of $12,000 in 1910,[15] and that figure rose in the following years. Smith was paid between $1,500 and $1,800 for each of the nearly 200 Good Housekeeping covers she did between 1917 and 1933; from this one magazine, she made more than a quarter of a million dollars, in addition to what she earned illustrating books and painting portraits of the children of the Philadelphia elite.[16] The period's greatest illustrators had considerable prestige within the art world--one, James Montgomery Flagg, wrote that "to be reproduced in Scribner's in 1904 was the same thing to an illustrator as being hung in the Paris Salon was to a painter"[17]--along with huge public followings. Smith regularly received fan letters from readers of the magazines in which her illustrations appeared, strangers who wrote to her as personally, even lovingly, as if she were a member of their families.[18] Many of her admirers were mothers, teachers, and children, and most of them wanted to know about her background and personal life. This story--which she briefly shared with her public in an autobiographical sketch she wrote for the October 1917 Good Housekeeping, and which has been more fully reconstructed by several art historians--does, in fact, offer important insights into her art, and that of other women in the field. A Women's Art Community Jessie Willcox Smith was born in 1863 in Philadelphia, the city where she would live and work most of her life.[19] She trained to be a kindergarten teacher but soon found that "children appealed to me more as pictures than as pupils."[20] Like many creative women of her era, Smith maintained that her talent was "discovered quite by accident" but admitted that she "began almost at once to draw little things for the children's magazines."[21] The start of her career was not as accidental as she claimed; the first sale of one of her "little things" (to a children's magazine, St. Nicholas) occurred only after she had studied art for three years. Fortunately for Smith, her native city was home to some of the nation's major art schools, and those schools had a tradition of training women as well as men.[22] In 1885, she entered the Philadelphia School of Design for Women but was disappointed with its focus on craftwork and its view of its students as hobbyists. Later that year she entered the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts, where she studied under the painters Thomas Anschutz and Thomas Eakins. In 1889, Smith took a salaried job in the advertising department of The Ladies' Home Journal, then based in Philadelphia. Some of her work there, such as the ads she drew for Ivory Soap during the 1890s, featured children and foreshadowed her future editorial work.[23] After five years, she enrolled in the first illustration class ever offered at the Drexel Institute of Arts and Sciences, under Howard Pyle, one of the pioneers of magazine illustration.[24] Pyle's classes set the foundations for Smith's career and for her personal life. There, she found a teacher who took her seriously, forced her to test her own limits as an artist, and provided her with her first important contacts within the publishing industry; she studied with students (including Maxfield Parrish) who would later be some of the most successful illustrators of the early twentieth-century; and she met Violet Oakley and Elizabeth Shippen Green, two fellow students who would become her studiomates, housemates, and lifelong friends. One-third of Pyle's students were women, many of whom--with Smith and Green at their core--created the domestic scenes that would later challenge the girlish creations of male illustrators. These women quickly formed a community of friendship, and several of them set up studios and/or homes together. One group to do so was Smith, Green, Oakley, and another Pyle student named Jessie Dowd. Such a living arrangement was not uncommon at the time. As John D'Emilio and Estelle Freedman have noted, in the early twentieth century, college-educated women professionals who remained single often created households with each other, jointly owning property, vacationing together, and becoming involved in the lives of each other's families. (Similar households were established by well-known women in various fields, including social reformers Jane Addams and Lillian Wald, Bryn Mawr president M. Carey Thomas, and novelist Willa Cather.)[25] In their shared Philadelphia home and studio, the women artists critiqued each other's work and occasionally served as models for each other's illustrations.[26] But what their partnership primarily provided was the financial and moral support each one needed to embark on a full-time career. In 1900, Smith, Green, and Oakley moved to the suburb of Bryn Mawr,[27] where they were joined by Henrietta Cozens, a friend of Green's and an expert gardener whose outdoor labors created a backdrop for Smith's pictures of children. Cozens oversaw the household affairs so that her housemates could devote their full attention to their work.[28] These were indeed productive years for the artists. Smith had left the Journal's advertising department (where Green had also briefly worked) in 1898 to concentrate on book commissions. She was becoming known for her realistic but upbeat style, which one art critic, writing in 1900, described as "definite and frank . . . vital and strong."[29] In 1902, Smith and Green collaborated on The Book of the Child, a collection of their best drawings of children,[30] which gained national attention.[31] Green, who by then had more than 100 magazine illustration credits to her name--mainly domestic scenes--began an exclusive contract with the various Harper's magazines that would be renewed through 1924. Smith's work was winning awards in the art world[32] and exposure in the commercial world, appearing inside magazines such as Scribner's, Collier's, and Century and on the covers of the Journal and McClure's. In 1904, Collier's offered Smith a two-year, exclusive contract, putting her in distinguished company: other illustrators thus engaged by the magazine at the time were Maxfield Parrish, Charles Dana Gibson, and Frederic Remington.[33] During her contract period, the magazine printed nearly 40 of her drawings, more than two dozen of them covers.[34] This work extended her reputation as a specialist in children and led to her next major commission, the illustrations for a 1905 edition of Robert Louis Stevenson's A Child's Garden of Verses.[35] It was at this time that Smith and her roommates moved to a nearby farm that would be considered an artists' colony for the next three decades. They named it Cogslea--after the first letter of each woman's last name (Cozens, Oakley, Green, and Smith) plus "lea," an English suffix meaning "meadow." The community received flattering attention from the press. In 1906, a women's magazine writer--who offered their partnership as an example of how women could succeed in art--called them "types of the modern, capable, thoroughly self-sufficient yet charmingly public-spirited American girl."[36] Most publicity about the group, however, cast them not as trendsetters, but rather as Victorian gentlewomen. One journalist of the day called them "very clever young women [who] lived out their daily artistic lives under one roof in the gentle comraderie of some Old World 'school' . . . ."[37] This was much how they were received by their wealthy, socially-prominent neighbors, who sent their children over to be painted by Smith and Green and invited the artists to discuss their work at luncheons.[38] The Cogslea women took care of not only each other, but also each other's families and friends. The property was, on various occasions, home to ill or elderly relatives including Smith's brother and aunt, Green's parents, and Oakley's mother.[39] They entertained other women artists, including Charlotte Harding Brown and Alice Barber Stephens (who themselves had once shared a home and studio), as well as Ethel Franklin Betts. In 1911, Elizabeth Shippen Green married Philadelphia architect Huger Elliott, with whom she moved away. Yet the couple built a house on the Cogslea property, where they stayed on frequent visits and Green sometimes worked.[40] In 1913, a new artist moved in: Edith Emerson, a muralist and student of Violet Oakley.[41] At Cogslea, Smith continued her ascending career as a book illustrator, with works including a 1915 edition of Louisa May Alcott's classic, Little Women, and Charles Kingsley's The Water Babies (1916).[42] She took advertising commisions and, after the expiration of her Collier's contract in 1906, did covers for The Ladies' Home Journal, McClure's, and Woman's Home Companion. She also contributed inside illustrations to Harper's Bazaar, Scribner's, and Good Housekeeping. It was the last magazine that offered Smith the work that would earn her a place in magazine history. In 1917, she accepted a contract to be the exclusive cover artist for Good Housekeeping, and she continued in this role until March 1933, two years before her death.[43] For 16 years, Smith presented her view of mothers and children--especially children--on the magazine's covers. Maternal Scenes in the Age of the Gibson Girl and the Flapper Today, such material seems predictable for a woman artist working 80 years ago. Yet Smith's domestic vision was out of sync with a changing view of womanhood that dominated popular culture in the new century. The first three decades of the twentieth century might, in fact, be best characterized as "the Age of the Girl" in American media and entertainment. Charles Dana Gibson's[44] drawings of young women in Collier's magazine are among the best-remembered images of American women in the early twentieth century. One art historian describes the "Gibson Girl" as an "superior" being who "moved with easy assurance and rarely betrayed any emotion beyond the ghost of a smile . . . . the Gibson formula [was] a narrow waist and long shapely legs, a full but trim bosom, clearcut, aloof features, and that princess gaze."[45] During the first decades of the 1900s, the Gibson Girl appeared not only in the pages of Collier's, but also on wallpaper, scarves, ashtrays, and pillow covers, and in popular songs and plays. [46] Soon there were imitators: the "Fisher Girls" drawn by Harrison Fisher for Cosmopolitan (then a general-interest magazine) and the "Christy Girls" drawn by Howard Chandler Christy for Scribner's and McClure's. Harrison Fisher attributed the success of such images to the fact "that what the public desired most to look at was a pretty girl."[47] By the 1910s, such beautiful but self-absorbed creatures could be seen in other types of popular culture of the day, as well. The new medium of the movies featured young actresses named for their studios, such as "The Biograph Girl" and "The Vitagraph Girl"; Clara Bow, a movie-star "flapper," became known as "The 'It' Girl." The greatest girl star of all was Mary Pickford, who played child roles into her thirties.[48] In the titles and lyrics of popular sheet music--another mass medium that sold in the millions-per-copy--women were called girls or gals and were portrayed as manipulative, selfish, and immature, looking out for their own interests and uninterested in commitment. Hit songs included "There's a Little Bit of Bad in Every Good Little Girl" and "Danger (Look Out for that Gal!)."[49] The sensation on Broadway was the Ziegfeld Follies, which ran from 1907 to 1931 and featured a parade of tall, beautifully-dressed but blank-faced "Ziegfeld Girls."[50] Perhaps inspired by the show of legs in the Ziegfeld Follies, a number of male magazine illustrators began to draw bathing beauties. One was Alberto Vargas, whose "Vargas Girls" appeared in Esquire beginning in the 1920s. Another was Coles Phillips, who was also known for his "fadeaway girls," slim young women who seemed to simply disappear into the background.[51] By the 1920s, some male illustrators' depictions of girls bore little relationship at all to flesh-and-blood females. Maxfield Parrish was drawing fantasy girls--ethereal and otherwordly, figments of the imagination--for Life (then a humor magazine) and other periodicals. Life's main contribution to the image of women, however, was John Held's "flapper," who appeared on hundreds of the magazine's covers during the decade. These women were not only "shameless and selfish" (the words one flapper used to describe herself in a 1922 New York Times article)[52]; they were cartoons, caricatures.[53] Held's flappers offer perhaps the best evidence of, to quote cultural historian Martha Banta, "the part popular visual representations of the New Woman have had in transforming the type into a harmless joke."[54] His vision of womanhood is also as far from maternal as possible: one scholar who has surveyed women's body images in the twentieth century describes the flapper type as "remarkable for the near absence of female sexual characteristics,"[55] and Held's creations--skinny, flat-chested, hipless--fit the bill. In the meantime, something very different was going on in the art of women illustrators, especially the work they did for women's magazines. In these pictures, women were drawn as mature adults and often shown with children--the definitive clue that a woman is no longer a girl, and is no longer carefree. One magazine writer of the day noted that "The Gibson and Christie (sic) type is almost wholly absent from the ranks of the woman artist."[56] Jessie Willcox Smith was only the best-known of many women illustrators of her era who specialized in drawing mothers and children. The pioneer of this tradition was Alice Barber Stephens, whose maternal images had appeared in Century, Scribner's, the Harper's magazines, and The Ladies' Home Journal beginning in the 1880s, and who was still working in the early twentieth century. Elizabeth Shippen Green created similar scenes for the Harper's magazines as well as The Ladies' Home Journal and The Saturday Evening Post. Like Smith, she often drew mothers bending down or leaning over, helping or paying attention to a child. The way women "looked" in these illustrations had less to do with their personal appearances than with their activities and settings. Other women working in this genre were regularly employed by national magazines. They included Sarah Stilwell, Ethel Franklin Betts, Charlotte Harding Brown, Ellen Bernard Thompson, Alice Beard, Katharine Richardson, Mary Ellen Sigsbee, Ada Clendenin Williamson, Frances Tipton Hunter, Maud Humphrey, sisters Maude and Genevieve Cowles, and Neysa McMein. Some of these artists were associated primarily with general-interest magazines--from Brown's steady work in the early 1900s for Century to Ellen Bernard Thompson's affiliation with The Saturday Evening Post in the 1920s--even though their subject matter was domestic. Yet most of the women found their best markets in the major women's magazines: The Ladies' Home Journal, Good Housekeeping, and Woman's Home Companion, and McCall's. While Smith was engaged in her long association with Good Housekeeping, Neysa McMein was under contract (from 1923 to 1937) as the exclusive cover artist for McCall's.[57] Eleven of the sixteen women listed above[58] were students of Howard Pyle between 1894 and 1910. Art historian Charlotte Streifer Rubinstein notes the similarity of not only subject matter but also style in their work and offers this consistency as evidence that "teachers are not the only influence on a student body: Students teach one another. The women students of Pyle were such good friends that their artistic style was affected by mutually shared influences."[59] Philip Hale, a newspaper art critic writing in 1907, noticed the difference between the way women illustrators drew women and the way their male counterparts drew girls. In a column titled "Women Surpassing Men Illustrators"-(which began by calling Jessie Willcox Smith "an excellent example" of women's work in the field) Hale coyly suggested one reason for women artists' popularity: Possibly they--ah, malicious sex--don't find the Gibson girl, with her French doll eyes, her tip-tilted nose, her chin bent to one side, so fascinating as do our guileless men--illustrators and others. Their girls--the ones these women make--have an individuality . . . which our good men are afraid to inject in their creations, for fear people will say they "can't make a lady."[60] Motherhood in Life and Art The fact that the women illustrators portrayed women not only as realistic-looking adults, but specifically as mothers is significant. Motherhood was a controversial and much-discussed topic in the Age of the Girl. White supremists feared that falling childbirth rates among native-born, middle-class, white women, in the face of the swelling immigrant population, would lead to "race suicide," a phrase even the politically moderate Theodore Roosevelt used. Ladies' Home Journal editor Edward Bok urged his readers to make motherhood, rather than suffrage or economic advancement, their priority,[61] while a discussion of birth control in 1911 and 1912 issues of Good Housekeeping prompted letters to the editor in which readers called childless women selfish.[62] Aggravating such concerns was the fact that many college-educated women were remaining single and pursuing careers[63] and limited numbers of other young women were emulating the sexually-free, hedonistic life of the flapper. Neverthless, the majority of American women did continue to marry and have children, and married women who were unable to conceive went to great lengths to adopt.[64] These women, writes social historian Elaine Tyler May, were devoted to home and family and likely to "place hopes for happiness in their children."[65] The domestic lifestyle was idealized by "maternalists," female social reformers (such as members of the National Congress of Mothers) whose goals overlapped with the growing feminist movement. Twentieth-century maternalism, notes social-welfare historian Molly Ladd-Taylor, was "an ideology rooted in the nineteenth-century doctrine of separate spheres" and based on the premise "that there is a uniquely feminine value system based on care and nurturance."[66] Other female reformers encouraged American women to engage in "civic housekeeping," an extension of the moral and domestic standards of the home into the larger society through volunteer work and women's clubs.[67] Older activists, especially suffragists[68], criticized young women who felt no obligations to home and community and instead pursued a bohemian life.[69] As historian Ann Douglas has noted, this generational tension was presented in the media of the day as a battle between women and girls, between mothers and daughters.[70] Like the social reformers, Jessie Willcox Smith--who was in her mid-fifties when she began her nearly-two-decade association with Good Housekeeping, her best-known work--came down squarely on the side of mothers, whose work she took seriously. She took the children she drew seriously, too. She drew most of them in outdoor settings, which she considered more natural than drawing-room poses.[71] Like the mothers she drew, her children were lifelike; to quote a reader who wrote to Good Housekeeping in 1926, they "really look like children."[72] Some of her child subjects appeared adorably cheerful, but many others seemed perplexed, curious, or surprised. One critic of the day praised the "sympathetically human feeling" in Smith's work, adding that "she touches the simple, homely sides of life with a loving hand, yet with a degree of fine insight which keeps the sentiment of her work far from the banal."[73] The artist Edith Emerson wrote that Smith's children "attract and win without guile."[74] Her biographer, S. Michael Schnessel, notes that her portraits "were so universal, so representative of the American youngsters that the publication [Good Housekeeping] received numerous letters from concerned mothers in all parts of the country saying basically the same thing: 'Where did you steal my child?'"[75] A writer for Woman's Home Companion claimed that "woman's innate maternal love" gave women illustrators an advantage in drawing children, and she singled out Smith's drawings as art "only a woman's eye and hand could create."[76] Smith and other women illustrators did little to contradict such assumptions. In fact, Smith created a maternal public image for herself, speaking glowingly of children and the job of motherhood. She looked and acted the part. Photographs of her taken at different ages present a consistently Victorian picture: a serious expression, her hair in a bun, a high-necked, long dress, soft lighting. Acquaintances described her as reserved, soft-spoken, kind, and modest. Edith Emerson remembered that her friend showed "no trace of self-assertion."[77] Schnessel considers Smith's choice of "scenes of motherly love" ironic and "undeniably sad"--"a dominant theme that speaks volumes about her own needs and desires."[78] Nevertheless, he adds that "Spinsterhood never seemed to trouble her, and she rarely spoke with regret about not having married. She was not without suitors in her youth and in her middle years . . . . she annually hosted a Swiss businessman who came to the United States once each year. Annually he made a proposal of marriage, and annually she would refuse."[79] One explanation for Smith's lack of regret--or concern--over her own unmarried state was the strong network of friends that she built around herself. This Victorian woman who idealized family life in her art made her own family not of children and a husband, but of other women. Her support system extended beyond Cogslea through her personal and professional contacts with other women illustrators. Smith's correspondence also reveals a close relationship with another woman named Jessie, perhaps the artist Jessie Dowd, her former roommate.[80] A second explanation is that she held--or, at any rate, expressed--clear views on in the impossibility of combining motherhood and career. She told a journalist in 1927, "A woman's sphere is as sharply defined as a man's. If she elects to be a housewife and mother--that is her sphere, and no other. If on the other hand she elects to go into business or the arts, she must sacrifice motherhood in order to fill successfully her chosen sphere." The writer added, however, that Smith considered an unmarried woman's sphere to be as wide as a man's.[81] Smith's partnership with Green and Oakley, and her community of women artists, gave her the emotional and financial base from which she could explore that wider sphere. It also enabled her to draw her own vision of American womanhood at a time when popular-culture images of women were not particularly flattering. That she succeeded in both of these endeavors was evident in the fact that she became a major illustrator with a consistent and widely-recognized theme. S. Michael Schnessel notes that "One remarkable aspect of Smith's illustration . . . is that her works are often seen alone without accompanying text. It was thought that her works had enough of a following to stand on their own. Few artists achieved the same privilege . . . ."[82] An Alternative View of Womanhood Such popularity suggests that Smith's view of family life struck a chord (or a nerve) among readers despite--or perhaps because of--the prevalence of the caricaturized "girl" image in media and entertainment and the cultural illusion of newness and change in women's lives. What Smith and other women illustrators offered readers was an alternative view of womanhood, one that was relatively unchanging and yet consistently respectful. This is not to say that American women continued to consider motherhood the only career available to them in the new century. Nor it is to deny the cultural existence of "the New Woman" as a concept that symbolized real political and economic gains for women during the 1910s and 1920s. Yet to a significant extent, the idea of a new woman was co-opted in popular culture and transformed into a "modern girl" who was more amusing than progressive.[83] Given that interpretation of progress, women illustrators (and their audience) may have chosen to identify with images that depicted a less drastic transformation in women's lives. In much the same way maternalist reformers used domestic rhetoric, these artists used images of motherhood to assert women's social agency. At the same time, their own lives and careers offer a glimpse of what was actually possible for professional women in the early twentieth century. Jessie Willcox Smith and her female peers are worth inclusion in media histories because they are major figures in magazine illustration. But they are important in a larger sense as well. By using their art as a lens through which to look back on the early years of mass-market magazines, we see a different picture of womanhood, one that offers a fresh perspective on the Gibson Girl and the flapper. The recovery and preservation of that alternative view enriches our understanding of the American media past. [1] NOTES S. Michael Schnessel, Jessie Willcox Smith (New York: Thomas Y. Crowell, 1977), 44. [2] Catherine Connell Stryker, The Studios at Cogslea, Exhibition catalog, February 20-28, 1976 (Wilmington: Delaware Art Museum, 1976), 12. [3] Jessie Willcox Smith, "Jessie Willcox Smith," Good Housekeeping 65 (October 1917): 190. [4] Janet Woolf, The Social Production of Art, 2nd ed. (New York: New York University Press, 1993), 1, 40. [5] Stryker, 5. [6] Kirsten N. Swinth, Painting Professionals: Women Artists and the Development of a Professional Ideal in American Art, 1870-1920, Dissertation, Yale University, 1995, 6-7. [7] Swinth; also, Michelle Bogart, "Artistic Ideals and Commercial Practices: The Problem of Status for American Illustrators," Prospects: An Annual of American Cultural Studies 15 (1990): 225-81. Bogart argues that this feminization was one of the factors that detracted from the status of illustration as an art and the tendency of male illustrators to downplay the role of women in the field. For instance, for the first five years of its existence, a new professional organization, the New York-based Society of Illustrators, admitted 88 members, only five of them women. Among those five, however, were Smith and her two roommates, Elizabeth Shippen Green and Violet Oakley (237). Swinth makes the same argument with regard to the field of painting, in which women made significant professional gains around the turn of the century. [8] Helen Hale, "Hints to Young but Ambitious Artists from Some of the Most Famous Women Illustrators," Chicago Examiner January 22, 1906: n. p., in Elizabeth Shippen Green scrapbook, Archives of American Art, microfilm roll P5. Among the names Hale mentioned were Elizabeth Shippen Green and Alice Barber Stephens. [9] Among the magazines with more than a million readers in the first decade of the twentieth century were The Saturday Evening Post and The Ladies' Home Journal. [10] Bogart, 67. [11] Information in this paragraph comes from Bogart; John Tebbel and Mary Ellen Zuckerman, The Magazine in America, 1741-1990 (New York: Oxford University Press, 1991); and Amy Janello and Brennon Jones, The American Magazine (New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1991). [12] Roland Elzea, Introduction, Howard Pyle (New York: Charles Scribner's Sons, 1975). Book not paginated. [13] Janello and Jones, 168. [14] "Modern Picture Making and Its Generous Rewards: How a Group of Illustrators Is Reaping Fortunes by Drawing Pictures of the 'Modern Girl,'" The Philadelphia Public Ledger February 6, 1910: n.p., in Elizabeth Shippen Green scrapbook, roll P5, Archives of American Art. This income range for top talents of the era is confirmed in Janello and Jones, 168-69. [15] "Modern Picture Making . . . ." The article estimated Elizabeth Shippen Green's income at $10,000. [16] Schnessel, 135; Gene Mitchell, The Subject Was Children: The Art of Jessie Willcox Smith (New York: E. P. Dutton, 1979), 3. Smith also negotiated royalty clauses in her magazine- and book-illustration contracts, and much of her income by the 1920s came from the commercial uses of reproductions (as, for instance, posters and postcards) of her cover art. Evidence of royalty income from various sources can be found in Smith's personal papers (1901-1931) in the Archives Department of the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts, Philadelphia, Pa. Other papers indicate that she resold illustrations for high prices to wealthy Philadelphians. On a 1924 exhibition checklist, Smith handwrote the prices she received for 54 of her paintings that had been used as magazine and book illustrations; 40 sold at $150 and above, a few for $300 ("Portraits, Drawings and Illustrations by Jessie Willcox Smith," exhibition list, December 4-28, 1924, in the records of The Philadelphia Art Alliance, Van Pelt Library, University of Pennsylvania, Coll. 53, Folder 624.) [17] Janello and Jones, 169. [18] More than a hundred examples, from every part of the U. S., survive in the archives of the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts. [19] The biographical information in this and following sections, on Smith's background, education, career, living arrangements, and friends is confirmed in a number of sources, among them: Mitchell; Smith herself (the Good Housekeeping article); Schnessel; Stryker; Edward D. Nudelman, Jessie Willcox Smith: A Bibliography (Gretna: Pelican Publishing, 1989); Patricia Likos, "The Ladies of the Red Rose," The Feminist Art Journal 5 (fall 1976): 11-15, 43; Smith's New York Times obituary ("Miss Jessie Smith, Illustrator, Dead," May 4, 1935, 13); her papers in the archives of the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts; and the papers and scrapbooks of Smith, Elizabeth Shippen Green, and Violet Oakley viewed on microfilm from the Archives of American Art, Washington, DC. However, quotations and other very specific pieces of information are attributed to individual sources. [20] Letter from Smith to "Mr. Abbott," n. d., in Smith's personal papers in the archives of the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts. [21] Smith, 24-25. [22] According to Christine Jones Huber, The Pennsylvania Academy and Its Women, 1850 to 1920, Exhibition catalog, May 3-June 16, 1973 (Philadelphia: Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts, 1974), the Pennsylvania Academy began accepting women students in 1844, the same year the School of Design for Women was founded (11-12). At the Academy, classes were segregated by gender until the 1870s (21). [23] Mitchell, 7. [24] According to Walt Reed, The Illustrator in America, 1900-1960s (New York: Reinhold, 1966), Pyle's career began in the 1870s with illustrations for Harper's magazine. Reed considers Pyle the greatest illustrator ever (13). His career is also surveyed in Charles D. Abbott, Howard Pyle: A Chronicle (New York: Harper & Brothers, 1925) and Henry C. Pitz, Howard Pyle: Writer, Illustrator, Founder of the Brandywine School (New York: Clarkson N. Potter, 1975). [25] John D'Emilio and Estelle B. Freedman, Intimate Matters: A History of Sexuality in America (New York: Harper & Row, 1988), 190-91. The Cogslea women were professionally acquainted with the women mentioned here: Green drew calendars and Oakley drew murals for Bryn Mawr, suggesting an acquaintance with Thomas; Oakley later became involved in the peace movement and painted a portrait of Addams; and Smith sold some of her work to Cather while the latter was managing editor of McClure's, from 1908 to 1912. Addams' and Thomas's partnerships are mentioned in D'Emilio and Freedman, 190-91; Wald is discussed in Blanche Wiesen Cook, "Female Support Networks and Political Activism: Lillian Wald, Crystal Eastman, Emma Goldman," Chrysalis 3 (1977): 43-61; Cather's relationships with women are discussed in many biographies, including Sharon O'Brien, Willa Cather: The Emerging Voice (New York: Oxford University Press, 1987). [26] Likos, 14. [27] Jessie Dowd had by then moved back to her native Ohio. In Bryn Mawr, they leased the Red Rose Inn, a home described in detail in Mary Tracy Earle, "The Red Rose," The Lamp: A Review and Record of Current Literature 26 (May 1903): 275-86. [28] In this sense, Cozens performed a support service for her housemates that most women artists lacked. Another American painter, Anna Lea Merritt, addressed this problem in a magazine article: "The chief obstacle to a woman's success," she wrote in 1900, "is that she can never have a wife. Just reflect what a wife does for an artist: Darns his stockings; Keeps his house; Writes his letters; Visits for his benefit; Wards off intruders; Is personally suggestive of beautiful pictures; Always an encouraging and partial critic. It is exceedingly difficult to be an artist without this time-saving help." (Anna Lea Merritt, "A Letter to Artists, Especially Women Artists," Lippincott Monthly Magazine, 65 [March 1900]: 467-8.) [29] Regina Armstrong, "Representative American Women Illustrators: The Decorative Workers," The Critic June 1900: 523. [30] Accompanied by poetry written by Mabel Humphrey. [31] The same year, Oakley, who had begun painting murals, was asked to decorate the Governor's Reception Room in the new state capitol building at Harrisburg--which, according to Charlotte Streifer Rubinstein (American Women Artists from Early Indian Times to the Present [New York: Avon, 1982], 159), was the largest public mural commission ever awarded to a woman in the United States. Oakley did continue to illustrate for some magazines, however, including The Ladies' Home Journal, Century, Everybody's, and Collier's. One cover for the latter publication, dated June 21, 1902, depicted the studiomates around the dinner table, with their glasses raised in a toast, though only her own and Smith's faces are visible. This cover is reproduced in Edward J. Sozanski, "Keeping a Legacy Alive," The Philadelphia Inquirer August 9, 1987, p. 1-D. [32] These prizes included the bronze medal at a 1902 international exposition in Charleston, S. C.; the Mary Smith Prize, for the best work by a woman artist, from the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts in 1903 (which Green would win in 1905); and the Silver Medal for illustration at the 1904 St. Louis International Exposition. The Gold Medal at the latter event was won by Violet Oakley. (Schnessel, 38, 40-41; Elizabeth Shippen Green papers, microfilm roll P5, Archives of American Art) [33] "Exclusively for Collier's" [editor's page], Collier's October 14, 1905: 21. [34] Smith did another 16 illustrations, nine of them covers, for the magazine between 1906 and 1916, when she was no longer under contract. [35] The book included 15 large drawings and 100 small ones, for which she received a total payment of $3,600. (Letter from J. H. Chapin, Scribner's Magazine Art Department, to Smith, d. December 23, 1903, in Smith's personal papers in the archives of the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts.) [36] Jessie Trimble, "Studying and Succeeding in Art," New Idea Woman's Magazine n.d., 1900: 14, in Elizabeth Shippen Green scrapbook, roll P5, Archives of American Art. Note the use of the word "girl" and "young" in this and the next quote--despite the fact that Smith then was in her forties and Green and Oakley were in their thirties. [37] Harrison S. Morris, "Jessie Willcox Smith," The Book Buyer 24 (1902): 201. Quoted in Stryker, 10. [38] Oakley in particular spoke frequently at such upscale social events and later offered art classes and a lecture series for society women. The three artists were also members of The Philadelphia Art Alliance, founded in 1915 by Christine Wetherill Stevenson, the daughter of Philadelphia real-estate magnate Samuel Price Wetherill. The group's patrons included the city's social elite and prominent businessmen. For instance, a Mrs. Edward Biddle was on the founding board of directors, and during the 1920s Edward Bok, the then-retired editor of The Ladies' Home Journal, served as an honorary vice-president (Theo B. White, The Philadelphia Art Alliance: Fifty Years, 1915-1965 [Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 1965], 32, 62). Another example of the women's social acceptance was their involvement in the homefront war effort during World War I, when Smith and Green illustrated posters and calendars to help raise money for the Red Cross, and Oakley painted murals for 25 U. S. battleships. [39] Smith also helped to financially support eleven of her nieces and nephews. [40] Chestnut Hill Historical Society, "The Artistic Legacy of Cogslea: Past and Present: A Walking Tour of the Environs of Cogslea" [pamphlet] (Chestnut Hill, Pa., May 6, 1995). Correspondence and photographs belonging to Green and Smith indicate that the two worked together at Cogslea--Smith taking photographs of scenes used in Green's book illustrations--as late as the 1920s (Jessie Willcox Smith Photographs [Coll. P.9446, Boxes 1-3], Prints Department, The Library Company, Philadelphia). [41] Emerson and Oakley had the barn at Cogslea remodeled into a living and work space, since they needed its size for their murals; they called the barn "Lower Cogslea." Meanwhile, Smith bought property adjacent to the farm and built a house for herself and Henrietta Cozens, calling it "Cogshill." [42] Other important book work Smith did during this period included Carolyn Wells' The Seven Ages of Childhood (1909; some of these illustrations later appeared in The Ladies' Home Journal); Dickens' Children (1910; some would appear in Scribner's); and Smith's own The Little Mother Goose (1915). [43] Smith's long association with Good Housekeeping no doubt cemented her social reputation as conservative and conventional, despite her professional success and personal lifestyle. In its announcement that Smith had become the magazine's exclusive cover artist, the editors wrote: "Certainly no other artist is so fitted to understand us, and to make for us pictures so truly an index to what we as a magazine are striving for--the holding up to our readers of the highest ideals of the American home, the home with that certain sweet wholesomeness one associates with a sunny living-room--and children." ("The Secret was about Covers," Good Housekeeping 65 [November 1917]: 32.) [44] Information on Gibson and the other male illustrators discussed here is taken from several sources, including Pitz; Janello and Jones; Shelley Armitage, John Held, Jr.: Illustrator of the Jazz Age (Syracuse, N. Y.: Syracuse University Press, 1987); Maxfield Parrish: The Poster Book (Berkeley, Calif.: Ten Speed Press, 1994); Walt and Roger Reed, The Illustrator in America, 1880-1980 (New York: Madison Square Press, 1984); and two books by Walt Reed: Great American Illustrators (New York: Abbeville Press, 1979), and The Illustrator in America, 1900-1960s (New York: Reinhold, 1966). [45] Gibson did at one point draw women as mothers--during World War I, when he served as head of the Committee on Public Information's Division of Pictorial Publicity. These illustrations often showed mothers sending their sons off to war. One example is reprinted in Jean Folkerts and Dwight L. Teeter, Jr., Voices of a Nation: A History of Mass Media in the United States, 2nd ed. (New York: Macmillan, 1994), 326. [46] Pitz, 175-76. [47] "Modern Picture Making . . . ." [48] See, for instance, William K. Everson, American Silent Film (New York: Oxford University Press, 1978). [49] "There's a Little Bit of Bad in Every Good Little Girl" by Grant Clarke and Fred Fisher (New York: Leo Feist, 1916); "Danger (Look Out for that Gal!)" by Charles O'Flynn and Eddie Kilfeather (New York: A. J. Stasny, 1928). Other titles from the era include: "You Never Can Be Too Sure about the Girls" by Rubey Cowan, Lew Brown, and Bobby Heath (New York: Broadway Music, 1917); "My Girl Has I Trouble (I Want This! I Want That!)" by Ted Fiorito and Gus Kahn (New York: Leo Feist, 1926); "When a Blonde Makes Up Her Mind" by Sammy Fain, Willie Raskin, and Irving Mills (New York: Jack Mills, 1925); "Red Hot Mamma" by Gilbert Wells, Bud Cooper, and Fred Rose (New York: Rainbow Music, 1924); and "Whose Little Heart Are You Breaking Now?" by Irving Berlin (New York: Waterson, Berlin, & Snyder Co., 1917). Copies of this music is in the Alice Marshall Collection at Penn State Harrisburg, Middletown, Pa. (Sheet Music, Box F). [50] See Marjorie Farnsworth, The Ziegfeld Follies (New York: Bonanza Books, 1956). [51] As explained by Reed, The Illustrator in America, 65. [52] Ruth Hooper, "Flapping Not Repented Of," The New York Times Book Review and Magazine July 16, 1922: 13. [53] To be fair to Held, what he was no doubt really caricaturizing in his Life covers of the 1920s was the shallowness and self-preoccupation of American society itself during the decade. Still, it is significant that he used women's images to do this. [54] Martha Banta, Imaging American Women: Idea and Ideals in Cultural History (New York: Columbia University Press, 1987), 62. [55] Allan Mazur, "U. S. Trends in Feminine Beauty and Overadaptation," The Journal of Sex Research 22 (August 1986): 288. [56] Trimble, 14. [57] McMein was an exception to the genre described here in that she drew adult women (often sophisticated-looking) who were not always in the company of children; still, she did enough covers of babies and children to place her within this group in terms of both content and style. Specific magazine credits and biographical information for her and the other women can be found in: Huber; Schnessel; Reed, The Illustrator in America; Walt and Roger Reed; Donna G. Bachmann and Sherry Piland, Women Artists: An Historical, Contemporary and Feminist Bibliography (Metuchen, N. J.: The Scarecrow Press, 1978); Roland Elzea and Elizabeth Hawkes, eds., A Small School of Art: The Students of Howard Pyle (Wilmington: Delaware Art Museum, 1980); Regina Armstrong, "Representative American Women Illustrators: The Child Interpreters," The Critic May 1900: 417-30; Elizabeth Lore North, "Women Illustrators of Child Life," The Outlook 78 (1904): 271-80; and Anne E. Mayer, Women Artists in the Howard Pyle Tradition, Exhibition catalog, September 6-November 23, 1975 (Chadds Ford, Pa.: Brandywine River Museum, 1975). [58] All but Humprey, Hunter, the Cowles sisters, and McMein. Hunter, however, was a Philadelphian and did study at the Pennsylvania Academy. [59] Rubinstein, 159. It is probably also significant that all of these women artists remained in Philadelphia. Their career paths in this sense contrast with another group of male illustrators who trained at the Pennsylvania Academy but left their newspaper illustration jobs for painting careers, and left Philadelphia for New York--the "ashcan realists." Also known as "The Eight," this group (whose best-known members were Robert Henri and John Sloan) specialized in scenes of urban poverty and working-class life and later contributed to the Socialist magazine The Masses (Bennard B. Perlman, Painters of the Ashcan School: The Immortal Eight (New York: Dover Publications, 1979). [60] Philip L. Hale, "Women Surpassing Men Illustrators." Newspaper name unknown, n. d., 1907. Uncredited clipping, Jessie Willcox Smith file in the library of the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts. [61] Bok articulated this position, which he maintained into the twentieth century, as early as 1890, when he wrote, ". . . sometimes I begin to wonder if woman is not progressing in the wrong direction, if she is not drifting away from that home anchorage for which God intended her. There is no mission so great or urgent which justifies a woman from leaving a home in which is her husband and her children." (The Ladies' Home Journal March 1890: 8, quoted in Helen Damon-Moore, Magazines for the Millions: Gender and Commerce in the Ladies' Home Journal and the Saturday Evening Post, 1880-1910 [Albany: State University of New York Press, 1994], 83). [62] Margaret Marsh and Wanda Ronner, The Empty Cradle: Infertility in America from Colonial Times to the Present (Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 1996), 113, 116. [63] Fifty-three percent of women who attended Bryn Mawr (to choose a Philadelphia example) between 1889 and 1908 did not marry; statistics were similar for alumnae of Wellesley College and the University of Michigan (D'Emilio and Freedman, 190). [64] Marsh and Ronner; Elaine Tyler May, Great Expectations: Marriage and Divorce in Post-Victorian America (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1980). According to Marsh and Ronner, the average marriage rate among white American women has never fallen below 90 percent. [65] May, 89. [66] Molly Ladd-Taylor, Mother-Work: Women, Child Welfare, and the State, 1890-1930 (Urbana, Ill.: University of Illinois Press, 1994), 3. [67] The considerable involvement of women journalists and women's periodicals in the civic (or "municipal") housekeeping movement has been the subject of work by women journalism historians including Kathleen Endres and Agnes Hooper Gottlieb. [68] Smith was neither a suffragist nor a club woman, although she maintained close friendships with women who were both (including Violet Oakley, one of the other artists with whom Smith shared a studio and a home). [69] Margaret Marsh cites as examples of such criticism Margaret Slattery's 1918 book The American Girl and Her Community and Beatrice Forbes Robinson Hale's 1923 book What's Wrong with Our Girls (Marsh, Suburban Lives [New Brunswick, N. J.: Rutgers University Press, 1990], 134-35, 212n18, 20). [70] Ann Douglas, Chapter 6, "The 'Dark Legend' of Matricide," Terrible Honesty: Mongrel Manhattan in the 1920s (New York: Farrar, Strauss, 1995), 217-253. A 1922 newspaper article, for instance, described the flapper as a girl "who takes a man's point of view as her mother never could" (Hooper: 13). [71] Such a choice reinforces what historian Margaret Marsh has described as the anti-urban sentiment of early-twentieth-century domestic ideology and the increasingly popular notion of "the suburb as the proper place to rear children" (Suburban Lives, 137). [72] Letter from Lucy Van Haney, Brooklyn, N. Y., to Good Housekeeping, d. November 28, 1926, in Smith's personal papers in the archives of the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts. [73] Earle, 79. [74] Edith Emerson, "The Age of Innocence: Portraits of Jessie Willcox Smith," The American Magazine of Art 16 (July 1925): 342. [75] Schnessel, 124. For instance, another letter written to Smith in 1926 read: "I was very much thrilled on seeing the November cover of Good Housekeeping, to find that my two darling children were portrayed thereon . . . . Little Freddie's every characteristic line and pose is so perfect, and Pamela's timid and wistful expression . . . Where and when did you see the children?" (Letter from Constance Bell Pearson, Beverly, Mass., to Smith d. October 28, 1926, in Smith's personal papers in the archives of the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts). [76] George Alfred Williams, "American Painters of Children," Woman's Home Companion 9 (September 1911): 15. [77] Edith, Emerson, "An Appreciation," Memorial Exhibition of the Work of Jessie Willcox Smith, exhibition catalog, March 14-April 12, 1936 (Philadelphia: The Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts, 1936). [78] Schnessel, 21. [79] Schnessel, 46. [80] Such relationships between and among women (which, in the case of couples, were sometimes called "Boston marriages") were socially accepted in an era "which valued female sensibility and female bonds (D'Emilio and Freedman, 191-92). [81] A five-page, typed manuscript in Smith's personal papers, in the Archives of the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts, with a notation that it was "possibly an enclosure belonging with letter from Louise Hillyer Armstrong to JWS, January 31, 1927." [82] Schnessel, 162. [83] Journalism historian Terry Hynes has also questioned the historical reality of the New Woman image and challenged the "selective memories" of historians of this era. Her 1981 content analysis of images of women in the editorial pages (both nonfiction and fiction) of American magazines between 1911 and 1930 showed far less change in their political and social status than most historians "remember." (Terry Hynes, "Magazine Portrayal of Women, 1911-1930," Journalism Monographs 72 [May 1981].)
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