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Personal Impact Assessment of Advertising Culture of "Whiteness": Facial Skin Color Preferences among Urban Chinese Women
By
Angela K. Y. Mak Ph.D. Student School of Journalism and Communication 1225 University of Oregon Eugene, OR 97403
Tel: (541) 346-7185 Fax: (541) 346-0682 E-mail: [log in to unmask]
A student paper submitted for presentation at the:
Visual Communication Division 2003 Association for Education in Journalism and Mass Communication Convention Kansas City, Missouri July 30 – August 2, 2003 ABSTRACT
Personal Impact Assessment of Advertising Culture of "Whiteness": Facial Skin Color Preferences among Urban Chinese Women
This paper examines a key determinant of female beauty among urban Chinese women: the preferred whiter facial skin tone color. By using Williams' (2000a) Personal Impact Assessment, it investigates how the use of vivid images on recent whitening skin care product television advertising helps shape both the individual and social values among urban Chinese women in relation to the Chinese proverb, "One whiteness can substitute for three physical unattractivenesses (?????)."
Introduction
The concept of female beauty is illusory. The cosmetics industry aggressively uses the media to bombard eager consumers with "flavors of the month." Portrayals ostensibly establish and reinforce trends among the committed. The concept of female beauty is also multidimensional (Englis, Soloman, & Ashmore, 1994). It varies among nations and between different cultures, as well as over time.
Female adults, especially in urban cities of the Greater China, are willing to spend so much money in pursuit of the "perfect" skin for their faces. In particular, they want to have whiter facial skin tone, so that the connotations of "purity" and "beauty" from the product images would transfer to their self-identities. The recent Advertising Expenditure by AC Nielson shows that skin care is ranked the 7th product category for advertising budget consumption in Hong Kong market. In the first quarter of 2002, advertisers has spent US$26 millions on skin care products, which has 48% increase compared to last year's first quarter (AC Nielson, 2002).
SK-II, a Japanese brand which has business partnership with Maxfactor (a product of Procter & Gamble), positioned itself as the "queen" of skin care products since 1998 because of the invention of "Pitera[1]." With the use of celebrity endorsement and consistent brand image on its series of advertising campaigns, SK-II whitening skin care product line has succeeded in maintaining itself as the market leader. A recent poll conducted by Amy Magazine in May 2002 revealed that 38% of the Hong Kong women choose SK-II whitening mask as their most favorite whitening facial mask.
Purpose of Study
This paper examines a key determinant of female beauty among urban Chinese women: the preferred whiter facial skin tone color. By using Williams' (2000a) Personal Impact Assessment technique, it also investigates how the use of vivid images on television advertising (i.e. The SK-II whitening skin care product advertisements) helps shape both the individual and social values among urban Chinese women in relation to the Chinese proverb, "One whiteness can substitute for three physical unattractivenesses (?????)." By discovering both the conscious and unconscious levels of thinking among the whitening skin care product users, this paper helps understand how the "myth" of SK-II works in shaping the ideology of "whiteness" beauty in this social modality.
Conceptualization
Proverb and Culture
Samovar and Porter (1995) suggested that cultural values often are derived from the larger philosophical issues that are part of a cultural milieu. Cultural values, for definitional purpose, are broad-based, enduring, and relatively stable organizational rules for making choices and suggesting preferences for a group of people (Rokeach, 1968). They are learned by society members.
A cultural belief in the idiomatic form contains the wisdom of a group of people and hands down traditions from one generation to the next. By using a few vivid verbal (and visual) images, an idiom or proverb captures what a group of people deem as important. Because an idiom (or proverb) carries cultural weight, it may impact on learned human behavior (Haskins and Butts, 1973). But to assess the extent of impact, the meaning of an idiom (or proverb) requires a study of its usage (Samovar and Zormeirer, 1995).
For this study, the common Chinese proverb, "One whiteness can substitute for three physical unattractivenesses (?????)" is examined. The saying has constantly reinforced the notion that a white complexion is a preferred status over a dark and ugly one. It may explain, in part, the perception of female beauty in minds of Chinese people.
Nowhere is the apparent impact of this more visible than in urban cities in China, particularly in Hong Kong. The 1,092 square kilometer piece of China is a sophisticated international city. Still, its citizens retain the traditional ties to their agrarian cultural roots in the Pearl River delta of Southern China. Cantonese Chinese people, born into rich families, did not need to work in the productive, yet hot and sunny farmlands. Females from these wealthy families were not even allowed to have outdoor activities. As a result, they kept their skin a lighter skin tone. This explicitly reflected and implicitly reinforced that they belonged to the privileged, leisure class. So, whiteness became a higher social status symbol for Southern Chinese.
When Hong Kong was colonized by the United Kingdom, Caucasian British (gweilo) were also seen as having upper class privileges because they served as government leaders and/or high-level managers – desired economic states. Thus, the proverb, "One whiteness can substitute for three physical unattractivenesses (?????)" took on a tangible meaning that whiter was, de facto, better in Hong Kong society. Wealth and privilege and the white skin that usually came from these conditions made it culturally clear that even a person had a big nose or pimples, could be compensated over those who had darker complexion. So, the proverb has taken on two distinct meanings: First, a person who has whiter skin color looks better; and second, a whiter skinned person is of a higher social status. This offers valuable insight into the contemporary standard of female beauty in Southern Chinese culture.
Symbolic Consumption
The Chinese proverb, "One whiteness can substitute for three physical unattractivenesses (?????)," may also explain how the cultural gatekeepers, i.e. advertising, use the proverb to shape the ideology of the "whiteness" beauty in Chinese culture to persuade the consumption of their products (i.e. whitening skin care products).
Soloman (1989) argued that most work on symbolic consumption focuses on the decoding of product symbols by end consumers. He suggested the focus on the intermediate stages of symbolic transmission: the processes by which cultural products are filtered, modified, and sorted by cultural gatekeepers prior to decoding by consumers. In order to understand this "production site" on the use of vivid images to strengthen the "whiteness" value in urban Chinese cities, this paper, therefore, uses the recent SK-II whitening skin care products television advertisements to see how the symbolic transmission interacts between the advertiser and the end-consumers.
Soloman (1989) also suggested that there are three structural components in a cultural production system. The first one is a creative subsystem responsible for generating new symbols/products. The second one is a managerial subsystem responsible for selecting, making tangible, mass producing, and managing the distribution of new symbols/products. The last one is a communications subsystem responsible for giving meaning to the new product and providing it with a symbolic set of attributes which are communicated to consumers. It would be interesting to see how SK-II created the myth of whitening miracle in the cultural production system.
Facial Skin Color Studies
There are some research studies on the beauty concepts in advertising recently. However, not many of them focus on the facial skin color. Research on Blacks in advertising has pointed out the inherent racist methods of marketing (Shepherd, 1980). Keenan (1996) found that black people shown in advertisements were "less black" than those in editorial photographs. Furthermore, Black women in ads were shown as having lighter complexions and features than their male counterparts (Keenan, 1996). Brown (1993) demonstrated that white people preferred looking at a light-skinned, keen-featured black woman than at those who had a classical African appearance. Black females also believe that black men find light in female skin most attractive. This leads to the idealization of lightness among the Blacks. Bond and Cash (1992) reported that blacks who desire a different skin tone favor being lighter over being darker. Hall (1995) suggested that the "bleaching syndrome" is a response by African Americans to assimilate into a society culturally dominated by whiteness even though such actions may cause psychic conflict.
Based on the evidence cited above in reference to universality of color preferences and the evidence that African Americans have preferences, there is a good reason to ask the research question, what are the Chinese facial color preferences, especially among urban Chinese women? One might surmise that there is an equally wide range of acceptable preferences for the yellow facial skin of Chinese women shown in Chinese language beauty publications.
In Mak's (1999) empirical study, an advertising photo of a Chinese woman's face was manipulated into six different HSL (Hue, Saturation, and Lightness) settings involving the addition and withdrawal of 10% for each factor. The seven final renditions (including the original) were grouped into 21 pairs. From each pair, subjects were asked to choose the one they preferred. The results showed universal preferences for lighter/whiter facial colors of the model between both sexes. To further test the reason behind this "whiteness" preference, subjects were asked to rate their attitude about the Chinese proverb, "One whiteness can substitute for three physical unattractivenesses (?????)." Those who held the proverb in higher regard also selected lighter/whiter skin tone photos.
Personal Impact Assessment
Although Mak's study (1999) is the first piece of research examining the facial color preferences among Chinese in advertising, the study did not really offer deep understanding about the symbolic consumption among the users in individual and social levels. Also, it did not evaluate the level of personal impact on consumers, a level often buried beneath conscious awareness.
Williams (2000a) designed a technique called "Personal Impact Assessment" (PIA) to access both conscious and unconscious processing of media imagery. The PIA technique applies Williams' Omniphasic Theory (2000b), which emphasizes a balance of rational and intuitive intelligences representing complementary, parallel cognitive systems that are independent, yet integrated, and equally significant to processing information.
According to Williams (2000a), "PIA can help the individual understand how mediated imagery generates associations that stimulate deeply held, personal values and beliefs in ways that develop unconscious memory and biases that subsequently motivate individuals toward specific behavior (p. 236)." This study, therefore, aims to use the PIA technique to explore what urban Chinese women think and how they feel about whitening skin care products. The study also examines the women's social relationships in regard to the Chinese proverb, "One whiteness can substitute for three physical unattractivenesses (?????)" manifested in the visual imagery of SK-II television advertising.
Research Questions
Specific research questions guiding the study were:
1. Does SK-II use advertising to promote a culture of "whiteness" among female urban Chinese strategically? If so, how?
2. What do the SK-II whitening skin care product advertisements mean, on both conscious and unconscious levels, to female urban Chinese product users?
3. To what extent do the SK-II whitening skin care product advertisements shape and promote the importance of the "whiteness" skin beauty concept among urban Chinese women, in relation to their self-images, product images and social values?
Methodology
In order to answer Q1, two recent SK-II television commercials about whitening skin care products were chosen as the "image site" to see how SK-II used advertising to create the "whiteness" culture among female urban Chinese. Because of the language diversity, Cantonese version was chosen for the Hong Kong audience and Mandarin version was chosen for the other urban Chinese city people (i.e. in Taipei, Shanghai, Guangzhou and Beijing). Both of the TVCs were endorsed by Sammi Cheng, the pop star in Greater China market. She has lots of different images on stage when performing her show business. She has been the spokesperson for SK-II products since 2000, particularly for the whitening skin care products (Figure 1).
[--- ??? Graphic Goes Here ---]
Figure 1: Sammi Cheng was chosen to promote SKII skin care products
In order to answer Q2, PIA technique was employed to discover the conscious and unconscious minds of the users. There are eight steps in PIA – 1) choose and view the image; 2) list primary words; 3) list associative words; 4) select most significant associative word; 5) list the most significant associative words; 6) relate associative words to an inner part of the self; 7) review the inner symbols; and 8) write the story or insight (Williams, 2000a).
Ten depth interviews were done by taking the PIA exercise (see APPENDIX A) and answering some follow-up questions (see APPENDIX B). All of the interviewees were current whitening skin care product female users from urban Chinese cities, such as Hong Kong, Taipei, Beijing, and Shanghai. Because of their unique backgrounds and interpretations of the TVC, each PIA exercise was reported individually as case studies in this paper (see APPENDIX C). To facilitate readability, these individual case studies were categorized as 1) brand loyalty group; 2) brand switchers; 3) advertising knowledgeable group; and 4) non SK-II myth believers.
In order to answer Q3, analysis on the interviewees' PIA exercises was included to see if there were any common threads on their self-images, product image, and social values related to the Chinese proverb, "One whiteness can substitute for three physical unattractivenesses (?????)," manipulated in the SK-II TV ads.
Results
"Whiteness" Advertising Culture and SK-II
An recent informal interview with a former advertising practitioner who had served her client, SK-II, in Taiwan revealed how SK-II was operating the cultural production system (Soloman, 1989). After conducting tons of consumer research to get some insights from Chinese women in Greater China, the advertising practitioners came up with a creative strategy on building SK-II as the "queen" of skin care product. The themes of the series of advertising campaigns were consistent and easily decoded – the benefits of facial problem removal demonstrated by the female Chinese celebrities on using the SK-II products, with the emphasis on the scientific formula. The dark red corporate color signifies the reliable, elegant and classy product image (Figure 2).
[--- ??? Graphic Goes Here ---]
Figure 2: SK-II corporate logo
In order to resonate the feelings of the target audiences, the creative directors asked the celebrities to pretend like "chatting" with the audiences in front of the camera. They usually integrated some slang phrases to create the close feeling so that it helped the audiences easily remember the effectiveness of the products, like a miracle for changing their facial problems. When SK-II had new product launch, it put lots of emphases on bombarding the target audiences by television commercials to increase the reach and frequency within a short period of time.
There are big ideas of the two chosen TVCs of the recent SK-II whitening skin care products. The first one was the Cantonese version (Figure 3). The colorful curtain setting detonates the black forehead, reddish and yellow facial that are not perfect for white skin. After her use of the new SK-II whitening facial mask that contains "Pitera," her face turns much whiter. Sammi feels very satisfied, as her skin is now as white as "tofu dessert."
[--- ??? Graphic Goes Here ---]
Figure 3: Cantonese Version (captured from TVC)
The second TVC was the Mandarin version (Figure 4). Sammi is sitting in a very nice, comfortable living room to introduce the three steps on whitening face. The first step is by using the "facial cloth" which contains Pitera. The second step is by using the "gray bottle" which can remove dark spots on skin. The last step is by using the "red bottle" which is a UV product. Sammi's facial expression and body movement echo what she says "I don't need to change anything anymore!" (because the three products from SK-II finally turn her face white and she is so satisfied with the white image).
[--- ??? Graphic Goes Here ---]
Figure 4: Mandarin Version (captured from TVC)
It is also interesting to take a look on the "legend" of SK-II from one the official websites (http://www.sk2.co.uk/our_legend1.htm):
"For almost a generation, Japanese women have known a secret...
Their secret is contained in the revolutionary effects of SK-II: a skincare range combining the magic of nature with the advances of science.
A Japanese monk visiting a sake brewery noticed that the brewery workers had extraordinarily soft and youthful hands. Even an elderly man with pronounced wrinkles on his face possessed the silky smooth hands of a young boy.
After a series of experiments a team of skincare scientists discovered the secret; a clear, nutrient-rich liquid that could be extracted during the yeast fermentation process. They named the liquid 'Pitera', which, over time, has become known as the 'Secret Key' to beautiful skin."
Such "legend story" provided some insights about the mythology of SK-II skin care products – it is a "miracle" and "secret key" to beautiful skin!
Personal Impact Assessment Exercise
In order to unmask the myth of SK-II whitening skin care product advertising, Williams' (2000) PIA technique was employed to investigate the conscious and unconscious levels of the minds of the female urban Chinese product users. Ten individual case studies were reported in the following groups: 1) SK-II brand loyalty group; 2) brand switchers; 3) advertising knowledgeable group; and 4) non SKII myth believers (see APPENDIX C).
To demonstrate the PIA exercise clearly, Figure 5 illustrated how one of the 10 interviewees followed the eight steps of the exercise:
Primary words Associative words & the most significant (underlined) Inner self
Figure 5: Visual demonstration of Joyce's PIA exercise
Joyce[2] was a Human Resources Officer working in Hong Kong. She regarded herself as a very dark skin person and thought that she was perceived much older because of her skin color. Joyce was not a SKII brand loyal person because the price was too high. Joyce believed that white skin tone color could substitute for rough skin, flat nose, and small eyes. Her level of advertising knowledge was little.
Figure 5 illustrated how Joyce practiced the PIA exercise. In each callout bubble, it contained the primary word, associative and most significant words, as well as her inner self symbol after watching the Cantonese version of the SK-II whitening skin care product TV ad. The red word represented the primary word that Joyce described the significant part of the image, i.e. POPULAR. The blue words were the associative words Joyce pondered the word POPULAR, i.e. hit, attraction, well-known, and follow. And she underlined attraction as her most significant associative word. Joyce, therefore, identified it as her inner FANTASY self in green.
Below is the insight from Joyce after doing the PIA exercise:
"The action of removing the colorful curtain reminds me that we need to remove all the obstacles in front of us. We need to have an optimistic, open mind in facing difficulties rather than just worrying it in an unrealistic manner. Then we can keep ourselves young and sparkling all the time. Though the product is popular, it is quite expensive so I will find another cheaper product to use. The TV series remind me the importance of whiteness – clean image to everyone rather than black forehead, yellow and reddish face. But my in-born dark skin is a fact. So there of course is a dilemma there because I know whiteness product to me is useless. I can't be as white as Sammi on the TV commercial!"
Discussion
Primary Words and Product Image
Overall, the primary words generated by the interviewees can be basically classified into 1) feature-oriented; 2) feeling-oriented; and 3) image-oriented (Table 1). The primary words revealed how SK-II image was in the minds and hearts among different types of whitening skin product users.
In terms of feature-oriented primary words, most of the interviewees would recall the visual components of the two TVCs, such as "face", "forehead", "curtain", "home", and "mask". However, they had different feelings towards the TVCs. For the brand loyalty and brand switcher groups, they would come up with more positive feelings like "comfortable", "clean", "reliable", "safe" and "relaxing". In contrast, the advertising knowledgeable group and the non-believers had more negative feelings toward the TVCs, like "exaggerating", "overwhelming light", "untruthful", "artificial", "superficial" and "complicated".
Feature-oriented Feeling-oriented Image-oriented Face, forehead, curtain, home, and mask Comfortable, clean, relaxing, exaggerating, overwhelming light, untruthful, and complicated Reliable, safe, artificial, and superficial Table 1: Primary words generated by ten interviewees
Associative Words and Self-images
The associative words, however, related to what things or values were important to the individuals. Interestingly, those brand loyalty users had many words related to physical beauty, such as "skin", "beautiful", "slim", and "attractive" while the non-believers generally did not have any associative words related to physical beauty. Their most significant associative words were, for example, "plain", "energetic", "enlighten", "feign", "lifestyle", and "positioning".
The brand switchers and the advertising knowledgeable group had a mix of feelings in their associative words. They wanted some positive moods like "cute", "effective", "sparkling" and "confident". They also wanted some promising rewards besides pursuing physical beauty, like "family", "money", "children" and "friend." And yet, they were realistic in knowing that "challenge", "opportunity", "man-made", "advertising", "first impression", and "attraction" are what they should pursue in reality. A summary is shown in Table 2.
Brand loyalty users Non-believers Brand switcher & Ad knowledgeable group Skin, beautiful, slim, and attractive Plain, energetic, enlighten, feign, lifestyle, and positioning Cute, effective, sparkling, confident, family, money, children, friend, challenge, opportunity, man-made, advertising, first impression, and attraction Table 2: Associative words among different whitening product user groups
Inner Self Symbols and Social Values
The common threads on inner self symbols among the interviewees were: They wanted to have a "change" in their lives so that it could satisfy their "fantasies", "desires", "dreams", and "wants" to become more "confident", "charming", "cheerful", and "simple". And yet, they found that they were so "vulnerable" in looking for that change. It correlates to what they described in their insights from the PIA exercises – they understood that those whitening skin care products would not really change their facial skin color become really white. But they would keep pursuing this "changing" feeling by using the products. Such dilemma could also relate to the belief in the Chinese proverb, "One whiteness can substitute for three physical unattractivenesses (?????)." For those who did not believe in the proverb (i.e. BJ and Qing), they had more focused, less dreaming inner self symbols compared to others (see APPENDIX C). The believers, actually, were trying to meet the standards on how others thought about them.
In summary, the PIA exercise helps understand how the creation of "whiteness" myth in the SK-II whitening skin care products advertising affects the individual and social values among the urban Chinese women in this study. The manipulation of the advertising by emphasizing the importance of the Chinese proverb, in particular, has greater impact on the brand loyalty users, brand switchers, and the advertising knowledgeable group. Pursuing whiter skin tone color is equal to making a great change in their lives, though many of them understand that it is very difficult in reality.
Visual Literacy
It was difficult to interpret the PIA results in a systematic, consistent way because each individual case was so unique. However, most of the interviewees had an "a-ha" type of response. They found that they understood what they really waned in their lives more after finishing their PIA exercises. As Williams (2000) points out, "Most individuals can take a quick look at the image and logically reject the idea that using the product will fulfill their needs in the way that is illustrated. Through this rejection a person may feel s-he has understood and countered the effect of the ad. But when they find themselves unwittingly standing at the counter purchasing the product over and over again, they must begin to consider that their rational evaluation and rejection, in fact, did not work and that something else was at play (p. 241)."
The PIA exercise, therefore, provided a chance for the interviewees to learn their intuitive, visual intelligence. It was interesting to know that even those interviewees who have advertising background (and some of them even are working in advertising industry) found themselves so vulnerable in front of advertising "intrusion." Visual literacy, therefore, must be taught in Journalism and Communication schools because the students are the "cultural gatekeepers" in the future. If they do not have visual intelligence in looking at visual images, all of us would be controlled by the manipulative advertising messages from the large corporations. Consumer education on visual literacy through the use of PIA is recommended. This paper is not trying to position PIA as an anti-consumerism advocacy tool but at least, it could offer a chance for the consumers to "stop", "look" and "listen to their hearts (intuitive visual thinking)" before purchasing any kinds of products.
Limitations and Future Directions
Although this study represents only ten current whitening skin care female product users and cannot be generalized to a larger population, it offers excellent qualitative insight. This study provides evidence on which to base future work exploring the interaction between production site, audience site, and cultural meaning. Future research based on a representative sample of women in different Chinese cities should explore thoughts and emotions of different groups of product users in a systematic comparison of such quantitative results with extensive qualitative study would contribute both to own understanding of the advertising's role in the culture of whiteness and Chinese cultural biases toward light toned skin.
Intuitive processes and experiences are extremely personal, idiosyncratic and often based on unconscious memory and cognition (Bechara and Damasio et al., 1997). As this study uses a qualitative method on interpreting PIA, future research could create a profile on the primary and associative words as well as the inner self symbols to see if there are any "patterns" emerged from the individuals. Ratings on each word could be given to the participants to see if there is an overall positive or negative perception on the mythology of the cultural consumption system.
Besides the whiteness on facial color, future research ideas could look at other beauty issues related to urban Chinese females, such as pore-less refined skin, slim figure and big breasts to see how they are manipulated by the imagery mediated communication industries, filtered in self-images and social values. With the use of PIA and the creation of word profiles, we may also see if there are similar patterns among beauty products in terms of mythology.
Conclusion
This paper gives a deeper understanding on how the cultural consumption system works through the manipulation of advertising message related to cultural and social values. The use of PIA technique helps deconstruct the "myth" of the whiteness advertising culture by understanding the conscious and unconscious levels of thinking of the product users. From this study, the "vulnerability" of the whitening skin care product users gives us a warning about the influence of cultural gatekeepers in shaping our self-images and social values. Teaching the practice of intuitive, visual intelligence, in an equal and complementary manner with rational intelligence through PIA could be one of the self-reflective therapeutic methods for consumer education. As "seeing is believing" (Barry, 1997), we should educate consumers on how to become more visual literate while being bombarded by advertising messages every day. By knowing one's inner self better, it could unmask the beauty illusion and refocus the consumer needs to other meaningful ways.
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Barry, A. M. S. (1997). Visual Intelligence: Perception, Image, and Manipulation in Visual Communication. NY: State University of New York Press.
Bond, S. and Cash T. F. (1992). Black beauty: Skin color and body images among African-American college women. Journal of Applied Social Psychology, 22(11), 874-888.
Brown, J. C. (1993). Which black is beautiful? Advertising Age, February 1, 19.
Englis, B. G., Soloman, M. R., and Ashmore, R. D. (1994). Beauty before the eyes of beholders: The cultural encoding of beauty types in magazine advertising and music television. Journal of Advertising, 13, 49-64.
Hall, R. (1995). The bleaching syndrome: African-Americans' response to cultural domination vis-à-vis skin color. Journal of Black Studies, 26(2), 172-184.
Haskins, J., and Butts, H. F. (1973). The Psychology of Black Language. New York: Barnes & Nobles.
Keenan, K. L. (1996). Skin tones and physical features of Blacks in magazine advertisements. J & MC Quarterly, 73(4), 905-912.
Mak, A. K. (1999). Facial skin color preferences for Chinese women in Hong Kong magazine advertisements. Human Communication, 2(1), 87-98.
Samovar, L. A., and Porter, R. E. (1995). Communication Between Cultures. Calif.: Wadsworth Publishing Company.
Samovar, L. A., and Zormeirer, S. M. (1995) Language as a mirror of reality: Mexican American Proverbs. Communication Between Cultures. Calif.: Wadsworth Publishing Company.
Shepherd, J. M. (1980). The portrayal of Black women in the ads of popular magazines. Western Journal of Black Studies, 4, 179-82.
Soloman, M. R. (1989). Building up and breaking down: The impact of cultural sorting on symbolic consumption. Research in Consumer Behavior, 3, 325-351.
Rokeach, M. (1968). Beliefs, Values, and Attitudes. San Francisco: Jossey-Bass.
Williams, R. (2000a) Visual illiteracy and intuitive visual persuasion, part II. Journal of Visual Literacy, 20(1), 111-124.
Williams, R. (2000b) Omniphasic visual-media literacy in the classroom part III. Journal of Visual Literacy, 20(2), 219-242. Appendix A – Personal Impact Assessment Exercise
Thank you for your participation in this study. Now, you're first going to complete an exercise. You'll be viewing a TV commercial and please follow the eight steps one by one while completing the exercise. Enjoy the discovery journey!
1. View the Image: View the RealPlayer TV commercial that I just sent to you. You should view the TV commercial at least three times and feel free to use the "pause" button if you wish. Here're are some tips that could help your viewing process:
• Looking at all the images from the TV commercial and letting your eye and mind wander around the different parts. • Notice the light, its direction and contrast and feel. • Notice the primary points of interest and where they are placed. • Notice lines and curves and basic design elements and how they help or hinder your eye movement. • Notice the grain or dot structure and surface pattern. • Notice the range and saturation of tones and/or colors and how they affect your feelings. • Notice how the image makes you feel. • Does it draw you in or keep you out? • Does it tell a clear story or does it stimulate your imagination to develop your own ideas or stories?
2. List Primary Words: List a single word that describes each of the significant parts of the image (the TV commercial)--character, place, things, colors/tone, feelings, etc.—in a column on the left side (Primary words) of page 2. You can list as many single word as you can. The single word could be a noun, an adjective, a verb and whatever. Put one word for one sentence in that column.
Primary words Associative words (for Step 2 only) (for Steps 3 & 4)
3. List Associative Words: Look at each of the descriptive words (in Step 2) you have written, one at a time. Start with the first word and write other words (word associations that come into your mind as you ponder the first word). Finish all of the associations for the first word before you move on to the next word. I suggest that you list at least three associative words for each primary word. More is fine.
For example, (Primary word) (Associative words) Happy Love Warmth Energy Food
4. Select Most Significant Associative Word: When you have completed the list of word associations, go back to the first primary word and think about its associative words over in you mind. Again, start with the first primary word and its associative words and go down the list. Try to intuit (first come in your mind) which is the most significant associative word for each primary word and underline it. Do not over think this; just say the associative words to yourself until one seems most significant. Do this for each group of associative words you have listed, one at a time. There are no right or wrong answers. Simply pick the word that seems most appropriate to you as you read the words.
For example, (Primary word) (Associative words) Happy Love Warmth Energy Food
(most significant associative word)
5. List the Most Significant Associate Words: Make a second list of the underlined "significant associative" words. Keep them in the same order in which they are found on the primary list. Leave enough space for each word on the list (i.e. one word for one sentence). You can simply copy and paste the underlined "significant associative" words onto this page.
Significant Word Association My Inner _____________ Self (from Step 4 to Step 5) (for Steps 6 & 7)
6. Relate Associative Words to an Inner Part of Yourself: Look at each word in the "significant word association" list (from Step 5) and consider what part of your inner self that word represents or symbolizes. Write that part of yourself to the right of the "significant word association." To identify the inner parts of yourself, it may be helpful to say "my inner______ self". i.e.: my inner vulnerable self, my inner trusting self, my inner fantasy self.
For example Significant Word Association My Inner _____________ Self
Energy (that I underlined before) My inner motivating self
7. Review the Inner Symbols: Look over these word symbols of your inner self and see if there is some clear connection or story about yourself that arises from the interaction of the inner-symbols from the image (TV commercial). This story or connection or meaning may be just a simple feeling or it may come to you in a flash or as an ah-haaa-type response. It will often reveal the inner conflicts, emotions, values, or feelings that are behind your personal, intuitive attraction to the image.
8. Write the Story/Insight: Write down the story or insight. Think about how it applies to your attraction to the image or how it offers insight about your own life relative to the image. Consider how the association of the product with fulfillment of these inner desires and values might establish unconscious biases and motivations. Consider how these unconscious motivations might influence your desire for the product or for things associated with the product (i.e.: attraction, physical perfection, love, power or confidence) and how this desire might influence you to adapt your behavior in some way.
APPENDIX B - Follow-up Questions
Thank you for participating this study. Below are some questions that I would like to know more about you personally. Please type out your answers next to the questions.
1. Have you used SK-II whitening products before?
2. Are you currently using SK-II whitening products?
3. If not, what brand(s) are you using? And why you don't use SK-II whitening products?
4. Tell me what's your impression on SK-II:
5. How many years have you been working?
6. On average, how much money do you spend for skin whitening (including product, facial treatment in beauty center, and taking pills) per month?
7. How often do you read those women magazine within a week?
8. Have you seen the TV commercial that you viewed before? If so, how many times have you seen it?
9. Your skin tone is (underline the most appropriate answer):
very white fairly white neutral fairly dark very dark
10. Compared to other women in your city, your skin tone is (underline the most appropriate answer):
very white fairly white neutral fairly dark very dark
11. Do you believe the Chinese proverb, "one physical attractiveness can substitute for three physical unattractivenesses." If so, what are the three physical unattractivenesses in your mind?
12. How does this proverb apply to your life (work/love/friendship/family, etc)?
Once again, thank you so much for your time and effort. I appreciate it very much!
APPENDIX C – INDIVIDUAL PIA RESULTS a) SK-II Brand Loyalty Group 1. Hannah's Profile: City of origin: Taipei Occupation: Coffee shop owner Advertising knowledge: Very little Brand loyalty: SK-II Impression on SK-II: Reliable and suitable for skin, highly recommend Skin tone: Neutral Compared to others: Fairly white Three physical unattractivenesses: Freckle, wrinkle and ugly face Applicability of the proverb: Improve appearance, more attractive to men and make myself happier!
Hannah's PIA exercise:
Primary Words Associative & Most Significant Words Inner Self Symbols Clear skin wording light Changing White beautiful clean comfortable happy Confident Transparent see through breakable secret Secret Direct easy-to-follow understandable Simple Comfortable sleep coffee warm sports Powerful Buy money happy confidence relax Surviving Sammi superstar thin tall perfect skin Dreaming Skin whitening pimples wrinkles freckle Charming Thin pretty charming attractive confident Confident Perfect skin beautiful makeup charming Confident 'Blackhead' nose ugly remove clean facial Disgusting Fresh simple comfortable cool Energetic Miracle magic pop-star witch minority Unbelievable
Hannah's Insight:
"I want to change many things in my life – appearance, lifestyle, connection with other people, etc. After the change, I will become more confident and comfortable. The whitening product that I am using now is not only for changing my skin tone color, but also help changing my inner self – become more confident and charming!"
2. Carmen's Profile: City of origin: Hong Kong Occupation: Office lady, part-time student Advertising knowledge: Very little Brand loyalty: SK-II Impression on SK-II: Effective Skin tone: Fairly white Compared to others: Fairly white Three physical unattractivenesses: Fat and short Applicability of the proverb: My mom always uses it to describe me!
Carmen's PIA exercise:
Primary Words Associative & Most Significant Words Inner Self Symbols Character Attractive Beautiful Happy Wanting Place Warm Comfortable Silent Surviving Colors White Red Yellow Black Wanting Tone Soft Sweet angry Controlling Feelings Sweet Happy Sad Controlling Clothes Colorful attractive soft Wanting Decoration Bright Clean Warm Surviving Body Slim Fat tall Wanting
Carmen's insight:
"I was attracted by the product after reading the TV. White is very important to a Chinese Woman. White can cover all the ugly part on your face. I 'm a Chinese woman, so I need it too. Also, It can build up my confidence. I trust this product because this TV is very persuasive to me. The Place and Decoration is what my dream house like. It is very comfortable and clean. The lighting is very bright. Also the character feels very enjoyable and happy to her life. I WANT it too."
b) Brand Switchers
3. Cathy's profile:
City of origin: Beijing Occupation: Full-time student (Working on TV before returning to school) Advertising knowledge: Little Brand loyalty: SK-II, Lancôme, and Olay Impression on SK-II: Expensive and but not worthy Skin tone: Fairly dark Compared to others: Fairly dark Three physical unattractivenesses: Rough skin, too skinny or too fat Applicability of the proverb: I think I'll look better in having white skin so I'm trying to make myself look whiter in everyday life.
Cathy's PIA exercise:
Primary Words Associative & Most Significant Words Inner Self Symbols Whiteness Clean, beauty, wedding, hospital Desiring Relaxing Holiday, hobby, family, home Nostalgic Fast-paced Vigor, springiness, busy, energy Motivating New face Happy, new lifestyle, opportunity Desiring Change New, strange, challenge, opportunity Curious Convincing Safe, reliable, truth, trusting Vulnerable Clean Comfortable, relaxing Tired High-tech Reliable, Modern, Convenient Vulnerable Complete Safe, guaranteed, convincing, finish Vulnerable
Cathy's insight:
"I personally prefer white skin because whiteness means clean and innocent to me. I don't know exactly why I think in this way, most probably is the influence of mass media. However, my skin is kind of dark. So, I always dream of white skin. In the TV commercial, whiteness is the theme – the furniture, the wall, the celebrity's clothes and the package of the products. I think I am interested in the TV commercial "by nature."
Because my skin color is far from the color I like, I really want a "change." I think this is another keyword in the ad besides whiteness. The celebrity is famous for her regular changes of the makeup, clothes and hairstyles. At the first sight of her, the word comes to my mind is "change." However, in the end of the ad, she said, "I know I don't want to change anymore (after her skin turns white)." This quote gave me a sense of relaxing – a sense of "finally, I found what I really want in my life" - something like that. This indicates a beginning of a new life to me – many new things, new feelings that I've never experienced before.
Another thing I'd like to relate the TV commercial to my personal experience is that I've tried many brands of whitening products before to get my skin whiter. But I don't think any of them really works. So, I'm kind of vulnerable. Truly reliable technology is very important for me when choosing whitening products. So I have deep impression about the complete and high-tech whitening package, and I think it's really reliable.
The last thing deeply impressed me is the cozy, warm and homely environment in the ad. The homely environment reminds me of my home. Since I am now far away from my family and the current study and work are stressful, a home-like environment makes me feel relaxed, comfortable and warm."
4. Cat's Profile: City of origin: Hong Kong Occupation: Graphic designer Advertising knowledge: Some Brand loyalty: No…brand switcher – SK-II, Neutrogena, Origin, Olay & Biotherm Impression on SK-II: Not effective and expensive Skin tone: Neutral Compared to others: Fairly dark Three physical unattractivenesses: Unclear contour line face, uneven facial color and fatty face Applicability of the proverb: Honestly, I don't care how "white" my friends are but I prefer my male friends look darker because I think whiteness on a man's face looks weak. If my female friends were not white, I wouldn't think that she is not pretty or not looking good. But it will sometimes affect my job decision, as I wouldn't choose those jobs that require me to exposure under the sun!!
Cat's PIA exercise:
Primary Words Associative & Most Significant Words Inner Self Symbols Sammi Trend, Pretty, Famous, Trustworthy Fantasy SK-II Effective, Famous, Popular Trusting White Pure, Pretty, Angel Fantasy Cute Happy, Laugh, Cheerful Entertaining Comfortable Home, Relax, Relief Hoping Home Warm, Safe, Relax, Sleeping, Sweet Trusting Scientific Reliable, Effective, Safe, Proof Positive Expensive Money, Guarantee, Confidence Motivating
Cat's insight:
"I found that I feel quite happy and reliable with the product though it is not really effective to me. I believe that the ad of the product can meet my desire to "become white" and that's why I do not only pay attention to the content but also trust what it says. Also, the character in the ad is very important and can really catch my attention because she's regarded as the lead of the trend that I hope to follow. By the way, I just realize that I am a positive person but in fact, many people think that I look cool or sad or depressed. Maybe it's because of my dark skin that leads to such misperception. Or maybe I just hide my inner self."
5. Joyce's profile:
City of origin: Hong Kong Occupation: Human Resources Officer Advertising knowledge: Little Brand loyalty: Fancl Impression on SK-II: Expensive, luxurious and popular Skin tone: Very dark Compared to others: Very dark Three physical unattractivenesses: Coarse skin, flat nose, and small eyes Applicability of the proverb: People say I am older because of my dark skin. My boyfriend will say those white girls are beautiful and look at them. My best friend is a white girl.
Joyce's PIA exercise:
Primary Words Associative & Most Significant Words Inner Self Symbols Popular Hit, attraction, well-known, follow Fantasy Plain Face, color, perfect Dreaming White Face, color, perfect, dream Unrealistic Black Bad, common, ugly, always Worrying Forehead Problems, first-impression, face, look, Concerning Yellow Bad, old, dirty, real Worrying Red Childish, allergy, sensitive, non-health Worrying Curtain Out, remove, unnecessary Relief Mask Treatment, recover, help, comfort, confidence Comfortable Home-feeling Warm, personal, friend Escaping Refresh New, green, young, energy Hopeful Relief No pressure, lay, comfort, nice Relaxing Energetic Refresh, sparkling, hopeful Wanting Kawaii (cute) Dream, young, Japanese, cute Luxurious Cross-arm gesture Objection, defensive, cute, Japanese Luxurious Self-confidence Bright, efficient, work, look Significant Tofu (soy) dessert Smooth, tasty, dessert, white, yummy Attractive Mouth-watering Delicious, bite, myself Exploring Try Want, need, free-trial Improvement
Joyce's insight:
"The action of removing the colorful curtain reminds me that we need to remove all the obstacles in front of us. We need to have an optimistic, open mind in facing difficulties rather than just worrying it in an unrealistic manner. Then we can keep ourselves young and sparkling all the time. Though the product is popular, it is quite expensive so I will find another cheaper product to use. The TV series remind me the importance of whiteness – clean image to everyone rather than black forehead, yellow and reddish face. But my in-born dark skin is a fact. So there of course is a dilemma there because I know whiteness product to me is useless.
I can't be as white as Sammi on the TV commercial."
c) Ad Knowledgeable Group
6. Vivien's profile:
City of origin: Hong Kong Occupation: Advertising Account Manager Advertising knowledge: A lot Brand loyalty: SK-II Impression on SK-II: Famous, very expensive, not so worthy Skin tone: neutral Compared to others: neutral Three physical unattractivenesses: It depends. If people are tired, in bad mood or under pressure, the proverb applies. It doesn't apply for people who are healthy, active and happy. Applicability of the proverb: I don't really concern about this…as long as I won't become a "dark" person. I am totally OK with my skin tone. Sometimes in summer, tan-look is preferred so as to give people an impression of healthiness.
Vivien's PIA exercise:
Primary Words Associative & Most Significant Words Inner Self Symbols White Pure, Dignity, Righteous Believed Bright Yellow, Sunshine, Sunbathing Cheerful Impossible Being a billionaire!!! Fantasy Cheerful Children, Love, Smile Motivating Comfortable Home, Holiday, Family, Being with friends Secured Beautiful Love, Family Trusting Cute Dogs, Children, Smile Simple Relax Holiday, Home, Dining, Eating Secured Fake Office, Colleagues, Life, Human Beings Weak Untruthful Advertising, sales Exaggerated
Vivien's insight:
"The SK-II whitening products use puffery advertising to persuade female users. It is exaggerating. Having said that, however, I still believe in that because it helps to whiten my skin – to make me look cheerful and beautiful. Others then perceive me as a trustful person."
7. CC's profile:
City of origin: Hong Kong Occupation: Advertising Account Executive Advertising knowledge: A lot Brand loyalty: Neutrogena Impression on SK-II: Too expensive and not worthy Skin tone: Fairly white Compared to others: Fairly white Three physical unattractivenesses: Fat, short, skin with big pores Applicability of the proverb: It does apply to the first impression when you meet somebody. Whey you're white, it makes people feel that you're tidy and neat, though you're not pretty enough. White skin also makes people think that you're kind, pleasant and cheerful. It helps make relationships with others.
CC's PIA exercise:
Primary Words Associative & Most Significant Words Inner Self Symbols White Smooth, clean, angel and beautiful Fantasy Comfortable Relax, air-conditioning, no worry Fantasy Clean White, neat and tidy Judging Cool Relax, convenient, comfortable Fantasy Overwhelming lighting Fake, man-made Resistible Nutrient Rich beautiful conscious Judging Decent OL, confident Vulnerable
CC's insight:
"The white and smooth face in the TVC let me related to myself…I'm white but seem not "purify" enough. I'm white and all the people surrounding say I have a good skin…but seem not as good as hers. It makes me feeling dirty. I want to be free from all skin – problems, which I would be proud of and make me feel relax and comfortable. If I feel that my skin is not white, smooth enough, I would think myself is ugly and also the others would do. The skin is very important to me. It can affect my mood and feeling during the whole day. It induces me to keep my good skin. The setting is very comfortable and decent. It represents a class with confident and intelligent. I should be like that!
But when the overwhelming lighting makes the perfect skin, it is very man-made. I hate it. I hate something which is very man-made, like over make-up. It's not true and it's not beautiful. I don't appreciate it.
The image does induce me to do something, of coz one of the solution is whitening mask, to keep my good skin, but the overwhelming lighting reflecting the perfect skin makes a fake impression. The product seems not credible enough. It just oversells it."
d) Non SK-II Myth Believers
8. Szeman's profile:
City of origin: Hong Kong Occupation: Public Relations Account Executive Advertising knowledge: A lot Brand loyalty: Valmont (and my mom is a beautician) Impression on SK-II: Expensive, over-claiming. Skin tone: Very white Compared to others: Very white Three physical unattractivenesses: Fat, short, aging Applicability of the proverb: Appearance is very important when having job interviews. It may help our first impression in building relationships (work and friendship).
Szeman's PIA exercise:
Primary Words Associative & Most Significant Words Inner Self Symbols White Plain, nothing, pure Stabilizing Pure Clean, non-bacteria, illness Controlling Clean White, fresh, cleanser Recharging Celebrity Expensive, famous, popular Controlling Gray Ill, bad, sad Alerting Exaggerated Over-claim, false, dramatic Vulnerable Colorful Yellow, energetic, rainbow Driving
Szeman's insight:
"I am very careful in evaluating the ads. I do not want to buy the products just after reading the ad. I read too many ads from SK-II. The ads are too dramatic. I would not believe it easily. I am self-alerted. I am self-controlling when reading the ad. I think that what I am using now is sufficient. In fact, I bought Max Factor lipstick which also promoted by Sammi before. After using it, I felt very dry and it hurt my lip. I feel that I was cheated by the ad. So, I do not trust what Sammi "sells" and the SK-II ads anymore."
9. BJ's profile:
City of origin: Hong Kong (but raised in Canada) Occupation: Full time student (Financial analyst before returning to school) Advertising knowledge: Little Brand loyalty: Glycel, Sisley and SK-II Impression on SK-II: Too many products Skin tone: Fairly white Compared to others: Fairly white Three physical unattractivenesses: No…attractiveness is from inner beauty Applicability of the proverb: Inner beauty is the most important and I believe we should feel comfortable of our look that is given by our parents.
BJ's PIA exercise:
Primary Words Associative & Most Significant Words Inner Self Symbols Artificial Unpleasant, dull, tedious Boring Suitable Appropriate, familiar, accepted Outstanding Clear Fine, definite, plain Focus Colorful Enlighten, bright, match Happy Superficial Pretended, act, feign Open
BJ's insight:
When I was a teenager, I admired people with tanned skin and it looked so healthy. I was not happy with my fair skin as I think I was as white as "pig". There was one time, I tried to put on the darkest suntan oil and went on sunshine bathing for the entire afternoon and I did only turn my skin to red, then few days later, it turned back to normal. I felt very boring by going back and forth to the beach and I decided to give up. However, when I grow up, fair skin is a sign of delicate and pure look. People is dreaming to have light skin and spend $$$ on whitening skin-care product. Oh!! Thanks so much I did not burn my skin when I was young.
10. Qing's profile:
City of origin: Shanghai Occupation: Part-time student (Journalist before coming to the US with her husband) Advertising knowledge: Little Brand loyalty: Maybeline, Aupress Impression on SK-II: Too expensive, unnecessary Skin tone: Neutral Compared to others: Neutral Three physical unattractivenesses: Small eyes, fat and rude manner Applicability of the proverb: No…I don't agree this proverb, as it looks unhealthy if someone has too white skin. I don't pursue white skin on purpose in my life.
Qing's PIA exercise:
Primary Words Associative & Most Significant Words Inner Self Symbols Clean Distilled water, sky, naive Gentle Matched Positioning, love, clothes Balancing Consistent Question, answer, talk + action Inconsistent Complicated Numbers, production, philosophy, instruction Casual Fashionable Fashion, idea, language, style Unsatisfying Energetic Undergrad. Students, football, lifestyle, transportation Satisfying Natural National park, lifestyle, village, expression Contrasting Successful Money, fortune, power, family, friendship, self-actualization Natural
Qing's insight:
"The process of the growth of a girl, actually, is a process of finding ways to balance herself. You couldn't believe how I was like 10 years ago…I was the type of girl who wanted to travel alone with my backpack. I was always criticized by the leaders of the Chinese government. At that time, I really wanted to escape to big cities. Because city girls are associated with striving for freedom, dream and love from the song, "Olive Tree."
My life became stable after working for few years and my ability was recognized. My satisfying inner self was achieved by climbing the career path. I understood that the only way to achieve success was by working hard. I tried to maintain my image as a successful office lady (when I was still a single person).
But I finally realized that marriage is the "second" life of women…after getting married. It changed the way of my thinking…from a girl to a woman. I cannot do what I want right away because I need to be responsible for my beloved one.
"Balance is beauty." I feel satisfied with my balancing self. My unsatisfying inner self reveals that I lose balanced a bit because I am now a F2 visa holder. That means I need to rely on someone. But I am adjusting it to keep myself balanced. The way that I am achieving for balanced life is far more important than making a lot of money."
[1] Pitera contains a natural collection of vitamins, minerals, amino acids and organic acids and helps restore the skin's natural rhythm by stimulating its renewal process. Its effects can only be described as astonishing. Women who have tried SK-II talk about their skin having become smoother, clearer, and more radiant. They agree that it gives them something infinitely precious - the gift of re-birth (http://www.sk2.co.uk).
[2] Surprisingly, all interviewees preferred to use their real names in the study, as they would like to share their learning process in the PIA exercise with other readers.
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